Delco re:View Fall/Winter 2019 - 31

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"JOINED BY THE BARREL"

SCOTLAND and AMERICA

T

his is a tale of "whiskey" or "whisky". Although the spirit
is spelled "whiskey" in the US and Ireland, the Scots
spell it Whisky, without the "e". This is due to historical
language and tradition. While whiskey (whisky) is made in
many countries, it can only be called "Scotch" if it is made in
Scotland and "Bourbon" if it is made in America (predominantly
Kentucky). There are several differences between Scotch and
Bourbon, including the process, stills, and local ingredients. Most
notable is the main ingredient which is malted barley for Scotch
and for Bourbon, at least 51% corn, with some barley, rye and/or
wheat.
Needless to say, both spirits are renowned
and experiencing a great resurgence at this
time in history. Upon a recent trip to Scotland
I was able to speak to the distillery personnel
at distilleries such as Macallan, Glenmorangie,
Balvenie, Glenfiddich, Oban, Highland Park, and
others. I learned of their strong dependence on
the Bourbon Industry in America. About 90% of
Scotch is aged in used Bourbon barrels. It has
been mandated by the government in America
since 1938 that Bourbon can only be aged in
"new" American oak barrels *(see below for the
rest of the story on this).
This guarantees an ongoing supply of used
barrels. The barrels are broken down, shrink wrapped and
shipped over to Scotland where they are carefully re-worked and
re-assembled. While most go to Scotland, some go to Mexico
for Tequila, some to the Caribbean for Rum and others to Ireland
and Canada for Whiskey. Today we see Craft beer breweries and
Wineries also using them. It seems that everyone appreciates that
tinge of Bourbon that remains in the wood that makes its mark on
their product.
While Bourbon depends on the flavor of vanilla (and tannins,
lactones...) that are imparted from "new" American oak, the
more subtle effects of the "used" American oak are perfect for
Scotch. American oak gives off a stronger vanilla flavor than
other oaks. The Vanillin in the wood is further enhanced by the
charring/toasting process.

One of the conversations that was had at each distillery,
besides the "big" thank you to Americans for the "barrels", was
their concern/fear that it is looking like the rules requiring one
use in America for Bourbon may be changing to allow for a
second use. If that happens it will have a dire effect on Scotland's
product. As previously stated, Scotch has been using second use
American barrels since before World War II and the public that
is alive today knows (and loves) only the popular flavors that are
caused by that relationship.
*So Why did American law require New American Oak
Barrels?
The requirement of new American oak is
rooted in Literal interpretation of the Law,
Tradition, Consistency, Concentration and
Politics. Because the word "new" was used
in the Federal Alcohol Administration Act
of 1935 which created the Federal Alcohol
Administration, a United States government
agency (created as part of the Department of the
Treasury).
The tradition was that the full bourbon
barrels were transported down river to be bottled
and distributed. There was no practical, cost
effective way to get them back to the source.
There were plenty of oak trees available to make new barrels.
The Consistency of all Bourbon was further guaranteed by
this requirement, as well as the concentration of flavors.
Perhaps the most important reason was that as the depression
was nearing an end, the Cooper's Union had very strong lobbying
efforts to keep their members working. *
Coming next ... Why the Scottish distilleries started to
use American oak and what they did prior to that. A trip to
Tennessee, interesting revelations ...
Submitted by a gentleman... one with discriminating taste.

Fall/Winter 2019

| 31


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