SIDEBAR Spring 2018 - 9

MONTGOMERYBAR.ORG

RESTAURANT REVIEW

Mistral Delights
in King of Prussia
By Robert R. Watson, Jr. & Gary J. Friedlander

A

"mistral" is a cold northerly wind on the Mediterranean
coast of France. Closer to home, Mistral is the result of
a collaboration between Executive Chef Scott Anderson
and Chef de Cuisine Ben Nerenhausen. Each of them James
Beard Foundation Award semi-finalists with an original restaurant
in Princeton, they opened their second location a little over a year
ago at the King of Prussia Mall.
Mistral is located outside the Mall between Lord & Taylor
and Neiman Marcus. Its atmosphere is cool and bright, boasting
a full bar in the center surrounded by high and low seating, with
full windows looking to busy shoppers on the sidewalks outside.
Away from the bar, tables are available to seat
small and large parties. For even better visuals,
additional seating is available at a second counter
which peers into the busy kitchen. Outdoor
seating is also available in warmer weather.
Mistral describes itself as an intimate culinary
experience, with a menu reflective of the Main
Line's local taste, style and atmosphere. Upon
arrival, one has the impression that patrons
looking for a quick bite between errands are
equally welcome with those looking to savor a
longer multi-course visit. This ability to serve
both types of diners is a strong suit for Mistral's
location.
Like the variety of clientele it serves, Mistral's menu features
ever-changing seasonal offerings, which showcase Anderson and
Nerenhausen's creativity and talent. This is not to suggest the
menu is limited - it includes a wide array of appetizers, small
plates, salads and bowls and large plates. The restaurant also
boasts an extensive wine list and rotating specialty cocktails.
Start your meal with the house Mistral Pilsner from River Horse
brewing in Ewing, NJ. Daily happy hour boasts a number of
drink and small plate specials.

To begin the meal, Mistral offers both appetizers and small
plates. We chose one from each category. For the appetizer, we
selected the Shrimp Beignets with a Spicy Creole Remoulade
($10). The beignets were delicious. They were not heavy and
were perfectly complimented by the remoulade. Other choices
included Scallop Crudo ($12), Shiitake Tempura ($10) and
Vietnamese Wings ($10).
For the small plate, we selected the Ginger Pork Meatballs
with Carrot and Cucumber Slaw ($12). The dish came with
four meatballs. The pork with the ginger seasoning was perfectly
blended. Other choices for small plates included Chicken Satay
($10), Smoked Salmon Tartine ($16) and Tuna Poke
($16).
The Duck Ramen soup ($10/$17) was fantastic,
with Trumpet Royale mushrooms, scallions, menma
and soy egg. The salty-smooth flavor and generous
noodles made the soup dish perfectly suited on its
own for a quick bite between department stores.
The Striped Bass large plate ($28) featured fresh
bass resting on eggplant, with a zesty Moroccan
spiced broth and yogurt compliment. Certainly
large enough to share, the tender fish paired
perfectly with the eggplant.
The second entree choice was the 48-Hour
Short Rib ($32). The dish was accompanied by
Smoked Sunchoke, Cippolini and Trumpet Royal. The meat was
perfectly cooked. It was so tender that a knife was not needed.
The combination of flavors was perfectly matched.
Mistral features a separate lunch menu, Sunday brunch starting
at 11 am, and even a kids menu. For dinner, reservations are
strongly recommended and necessary on weekends. Try reserving
a spot at the kitchen counter for a close look at culinary experts at
work.

SPRING 2018 9


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SIDEBAR Spring 2018

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