Specialty Fabrics Review June 2019 - 8

BRIEFINGS

SWATCHES

Soul-shifting fashion

F

ashion designer Iris van Herpen is
known for pushing boundaries. The
Amsterdam-based designer exploits symbiotic
relationships, using highly technical methods,
including 3D printing and laser cutting, to
create expansive, even tumultuous designs
that seem to flow from her imagination.
For her latest collection, Shift Souls,
van Herpen found inspiration in celestial
cartography, Japanese mythology and
advances in DNA engineering that raise the
question of the evolution of the human shape.
Shift Souls consists of 18 designs-
some described as harmonic and others as
symbiotic. The harmonic pieces are voluminous
spheroid dresses that reveal vibrant patterns
through translucent gradient-dyed, handpleated organza. The symbiotic designs are
sculptural, consisting of multilayered gradientdyed silks in dimensional color gradations
formed into hybrid bird shapes using a fine
3D laser-cut frame of PETG (polyethylene
terephthalate glycol).
For some pieces, the fabric is heat-bonded
within frames of laser-cut Mylar®, creating
surreal anatomies hiding and revealing
anamorphic faces that smoke around the
body in three dimensional "wave drawings."
One technique, called the "Galactic glitch,"
involves heat-bonding cloud-printed silk
to Mylar and laser-cutting it into the finest
lace of thousands of 0.5 mm "harmonica
waves." The intricate design creates quivering
reverberations of movement.
Van Herpen's "Cosmica" looks are
inspired by artist Kim Keever, the aquatic
expressionist who merges painting and
photography to create large-scale photos of
liquid clouds of colors. The designs feature
Keever's vaporous colored clouds printed on
translucent organza and layered into nebulous
multidimensional prints. For information,
visit www.irisvanherpen.com.
8 REVIEW JUNE 2019


http://www.irisvanherpen.com

Specialty Fabrics Review June 2019

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Specialty Fabrics Review June 2019 - 1
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