Specialty Fabrics Review March 2022 - 41

" By changing the dosage of the
chemistry applied, one can play
with the economical aspects as well
as with 'increased activity comfort'
or 'enhanced thermoregulation
performance', " Ghyselinck explains,
adding there are three dosage levels.
A recent introduction is
Moov&Cool Comfort NTL, a biobased,
quick-dry chemistry targeting those
interested in sustainable sportswear. It
carries third-party testing on the biocontent
and provides an alternative to
synthetic quick-dry solutions.
Testing, identifying functionality
Affiliated with Central Michigan
University in Mount Pleasant, the
Center for Merchandising and Design
Technology (CMDT) is primarily
focused on research optimizing human
thermal comfort, working with other
researchers and companies throughout
the entire product development
process. Among the multiple clients
CMDT serves are those in the apparel
industries, including providers of
athletic/athleisurewear, outdoor
work, work uniforms, winter coats,
and more, says Tanya Domina, chair
of the Fashion Interior Design &
Merchandising Department.
" Clients will approach us with a
question as specific as, 'How warm
does this coat keep a person outside in
six-degree weather?' or as vague as, 'Is
this textile finish worth the extra cost?'
Once we know their problem, we walk
them through the testing process and
suggest a protocol to assure they're
receiving data relevant to their needs, "
Domina explains.
Many of its athletic/athleisurewear
clients-who are mainly focused
on personal thermal-management
solutions-are interested in enhancing
the functionality of performance
apparel fabrics through the application
of finishes and/or the use of smart
fabrics; a desire driven by consumers'
increasingly demanding expectations.
Because such enhancements come
with higher product prices, companies
want to ensure the benefits justify the
increased costs, which can sometimes
be controlled by applying the finish or
using the smart fabric in specific areas
of the clothing rather than throughout
the entire garment.
Domina says the center has been
involved in several PCM athletic/
activewear applications designed to
keep wearers cool during activity.
However, a trend she's seeing this year
is a shift from cooling textiles and
clothing to products that maintain
warmth. This is driven in part by
the military's focus (another CMDT
client) on the Arctic and the need to
keep people warm and equipment
functioning in extreme cold. She is
also noticing growing industry interest
in having more detailed and verified
functionality information about
thermal ratings or thermal comfort
indexes that will enable meaningful
product comparisons, particularly
among consumers.
Over the next decade, Domina
anticipates " a huge growth " in PTM
(personal thermal management) textiles
and materials, as well as smart PTM
systems incorporating technologies
across multiple disciplines. She expects
these fabrics and systems will launch
into the athletic space first, then work
their way into athleisurewear and other
related markets.
Pamela Mills-Senn is a Seal Beach, Calif.-based
freelance writer
Want more? We have it!
Search " athletic performance " at
www.SpecialtyFabricsReview.com
CNT fibers can
be integrated
into many fabrics
although tight-fitting
garments worn by
athletes are best.
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