Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 20

Udder Guys Ice Cream Shop.
Inset: Inside Udder Guys Ice Cream (left
to right) Piper, Aleah and Larissa.

Among the pioneers there was enough land, lumber, and
salmon for everyone, including visitors. The soil and climate
were perfect for vineyards; infrastructure crept like grapevines
across the landscape in the form of roads and railroads. Catholic
missionaries built 'The Butter Church,' a small stone building on
top of Comiakin Hill, whose workmen were paid from the diocese dairy herd.
But within the village itself began a tradition of mercantilism
that has stretched seamlessly forward and blossomed into the
charming tourist destination we know today, resplendent with
flowers and funk. Cowichan Bay's first mogul was an immigrant
from Italy who lived at and named Genoa Bay. Giovanni Ordano
built the old Columbia Hotel (now the site of some condos up
the hill opposite the present Oceanfront Hotel) where in later
years, American celebrities like John Wayne and Bing Crosby
came to rest after a day of fishing for salmon. He also built
boats, which he used to transport merchandise and passengers
for his business interests.
But today you are standing by Rob's Lighthouse Café in
Cowichan Bay. Where do you even start? Food? We have real
artisan bread from True Grain, a business founded in 2004 by
John Knight - baker, bicyclist, and knitter. John has since moved
on to organic farming in the interior, but you catch the sense of
his vision. Now owned by Bruce Stewart (an extremely nice man
who offered to help me dig my car out of a snowbank last winter), True Grain is a member of the international Cittislow
movement that takes its food very seriously indeed. This local
business has drop-kicked breadmaking into a category all its
own. Bruce's almond croissants are so sinfully delicious that
words fail me. For ten years I was unable to get past them, but
I've recently tried his cheddar twists, so now when I go into the
store I'm torn and conflicted. Life is short. Buy everything.
Next door to True Grain is Hilary's Cheese, where you can
mellow out with a glass of local wine and cheese made from locally-sourced milk. Co-owner Sonja Todd is partial to Happy Goat
Tommy Devallee cheese. She doesn't mind if you come into her

20

Canadian Yachting

restaurant carrying brown paper bags from
True Grain because she plans to load you
up with blocks of cheese and fair is fair.
Later you may decide to buy a bottle of the Enrico Pinot Gris you
enjoyed with your Happy Goat cheese, so you walk on to the Pier
66 Market and Liquor Store where Lauren will sell you exactly
what you want. You may also want to choose something nice from
the Cherry Point Vineyards, or a copy of one of my last three
books. Lauren carries them all, bless her heart.
By this time you are planning a wine and cheese and croissant picnic in Hecate Park, where there are shaded tables and a
view across the bay of Mount Tzouhalem, where 150 years ago
the HMS Trincomali fired cannonballs in the hopes that the
Cowichan First Nations would be too preoccupied with the
noise to notice nobody intended to pay them for their land. You
will be waylaid at the end of the strip by Udder Guys Ice Cream
and Retro Candy Store, where the hand-made blackberry ice
cream will blow the top of your head off. Yves makes 24 flavours,
each one better than the next. Of the three young ladies scooping ice cream behind the counter, Piper likes orange and chocolate best, Aleah is partial to chocolate nut fudge, and Larissa
swears by raspberry. "Although they're all very good," Larissa
tells me, and I don't argue with her.
Too full of wine and cheese and ice cream to picnic at
Hecate Park, you dip into the Invisible Sun Arts Gallery and
Gifts to admire local artwork and some of Darlene Edwards'
incomparable Cowichan knitting, and then you swing past
Radway to shop for ethically-sourced clothing from Nepal,
Thailand, and Africa. The workers in the countries that supply
Radway are paid fair prices, given work breaks, and housed in
inspected buildings. Radway also sells locally-made jewellery.
"And are the Canadian artisans treated ethically too?" I ask, and
the young lady behind the counter laughs.
At the Mud Room, potter Colleen is slinging pots, each one
a work of art. The sign hanging over the Rock Cod Café was
carved and painted by world-famous Coast Salish artist and
great guy, Herb Rice. Check out his website at www.coastsalishjourney.com. Within the walls of the Rock Cod, the staff
pride themselves on their Halibut and chips, and the

OCTOBER 2017


http://www.coastsalishjourney.com http://www.coastsalishjourney.com

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Canadian Yachting October 2017

Vantage Point: First Time Charter Vacation
Club Profile: Beaconsfield Yacht Club
Travel Destination: Cowichan Bay
Boatbuilder Profile: A Trip to Iconic Italian Yachtbuilder Riva and Lake Como
Charter Destination: Our Top 5 Caribbean Destinations
The Port Hole
Charter Destination: Antigua; A Beam Reach for Paradise
Sail Review: Elan GT5
Power Review: Jeanneau Leader 10.5
Crossing The Line: Boatonomics for 2018
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - Cover1
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - Cover2
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 3
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 4
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 5
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - Vantage Point: First Time Charter Vacation
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 7
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 8
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 9
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - Club Profile: Beaconsfield Yacht Club
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 11
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 12
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 13
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 14
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 15
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - Travel Destination: Cowichan Bay
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 17
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 18
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 19
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 20
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 21
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - Boatbuilder Profile: A Trip to Iconic Italian Yachtbuilder Riva and Lake Como
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 23
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 24
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 25
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 26
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 27
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - Charter Destination: Our Top 5 Caribbean Destinations
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 29
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 30
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 31
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 32
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 33
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 34
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - The Port Hole
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 36
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 37
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 38
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 39
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 40
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 41
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 42
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 43
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 44
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 45
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 46
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 47
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 48
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 49
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 50
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 51
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 52
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 53
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 54
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 55
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 56
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 57
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - Charter Destination: Antigua; A Beam Reach for Paradise
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 59
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 60
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 61
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 62
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 63
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 64
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 65
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 66
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 67
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - Sail Review: Elan GT5
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 69
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 70
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 71
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 72
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 73
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - Power Review: Jeanneau Leader 10.5
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 75
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 76
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 77
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 78
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 79
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 80
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 81
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 82
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 83
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 84
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 85
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 86
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 87
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 88
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 89
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 90
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 91
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 92
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 93
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 94
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 95
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 96
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - 97
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - Crossing The Line: Boatonomics for 2018
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - Cover3
Canadian Yachting October 2017 - Cover4
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