Spirited Virginia Q3 2022 - 25
The West Takes on " Tiki "
While the United States government
may have had its eye on control, most
Americans simply appreciated Hawaii
and other Polynesian islands as tropical
destinations with stunning beaches and
enviable climate.
One American who travelled Polynesia
during the early 1900s, Ernest
Beaumont Gantt, worked on a yacht
traveling from the West Coast to Hawaii
to Australia and island-hopped through
the South Pacific.
Soon after Gantt returned to the
states, Prohibition ended-the perfect
time to open a cocktail-inspired restaurant.
Drawing inspiration from his travels,
Gantt opened Don the Beachcomber
restaurant in Los Angeles. He decorated
with kitschy Polynesian and tropical
décor and served Chinese-influenced
food, which was exotic but familiar to
American palates. He served elaborate
cocktails made with fresh juices, orange
liqueur, rum and housemade syrups-
sometimes up to 10 ingredients, with
theatrical presentations. Gantt's drink
creations include the Zombie, Tahitian,
Rum Punch and Navy Grog.
Not long after, Victor Bergeron
opened Trader Vic's in San Francisco.
Trader Vic's achieved acclaim for drink
creations such as Fog Cutter, Scorpion
Bowl and Mai Tai, served in tikitotem-inspired
containers.
Both restaurants spread, expanding
the popularity of tropical cocktails and
themes, duly dubbed " tiki. " Consumers
latched on to the concept, eager
to embrace the beach spirit into their
everyday lives. They celebrated the
physical manifestations of an idealized
Polynesia: sandy beaches and ocean
waves, volcanoes and waterfalls, swaying
palm trees and exotic tribal people and
customs. Women made tropical fashion
statements wearing sarongs while men
sported Hawaiian shirts.
Other bars and restaurants opened
capitalizing on the lure of the islands.
Cocktails called tiki drinks became
increasingly popular. These cocktails
Summer
aloha
Sip into
with the
Spirit of
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were typically garnished heavily with
fruit, swizzle sticks, flowers or tiny
umbrellas. They were served in hollowed-out
pineapples and coconuts,
large shareable bowls and thematic ceramic
mugs. Some mugs were made to
resemble Polynesian tiki statues with
warrior- and god-like faces, while others
represented skulls, hula girls or other
tropical motifs.
A True-Blue Hawaiian Tiki
Maker
A later proponent of tropical cocktails
had more local, perhaps purer, aspirations.
Hawaiian Harry Yee began bartending
in 1952 and was head bartender
at Henry Kaiser's Hawaiian Village Hotel
in Honolulu for 30 years. As bartender at
a resort bar, Yee's work involved welcomSPIRITED
VIRGINIA | JULY | AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2022 25
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Spirited Virginia Q3 2022
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Spirited Virginia Q3 2022
Spirited Virginia Q3 2022 - Cover1
Spirited Virginia Q3 2022 - Cover2
Spirited Virginia Q3 2022 - 1
Spirited Virginia Q3 2022 - 2
Spirited Virginia Q3 2022 - 3
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Spirited Virginia Q3 2022 - Cover3
Spirited Virginia Q3 2022 - Cover4
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