Spirited Virginia Q3 2022 - 72

BEHIND THE BAR
BILLY FELLIN
Will Seidensticker, Bar Manager, L'Opossum, Richmond
W
ill Seidensticker's career as a
bartender began about 25 years ago
in Richmond. " That's a skillset that has served
me well as I moved around the country in my
20s and 30s, " he says.
Back in Richmond, he began working at
L'Opossum. The restaurant's name hints
at its quirky personality (though not at its
cuisine). Chef and proprietor David Shannon
spent eight years at the acclaimed Virginia
restaurant, The Inn at Little Washington,
reinforcing a focus on all-encompassing
quality. L'Opossum is both posh and playful,
presenting inventive dishes with rich layers
of flavors and hints of humor. Dining there
is a harmonious experience of décor, food,
service and drinks-a perfect playground for
a creative mixing of spirits.
In what ways is working at L'Opossum
different from other places you've worked?
It's a magical playground, unlike any place I've
ever known-one-of-a-kind and very special.
David Shannon's vision for the restaurant
includes all hand-selected, one-of-a-kind
artwork, vintage lighting, decorative table
finishes and dinnerware, and a well-curated
playlist, all of which transports guests down
the rabbit hole that is L'Opossum.
Address the idea that premium spirits
provide the best base for quality cocktails.
Just like in cooking, using high-quality
ingredients elevates the final product,
especially with minimalist or classic cocktails.
72 SPIRITED VIRGINIA
Fine liquors, as your centerpiece, create a
stand-out cocktail. That's not to say that a
bottle of cheap whiskey with a PBR chaser
doesn't have its place in life. It certainly does.
What is the process for creating the
restaurant's signature cocktails?
The front of the house staff is well-versed and
contributes to the cocktail program, which
helps create a varied and interesting list. We
have a cocktail called Throwing Shade that was
developed by Erin Jameson, a long-time server
who formerly ran the cocktail program at The
Modern, a restaurant at the Museum of Modern
Art in New York City. The cocktail is a mash-up
of two cocktail classics-a Boulevardier and
an Old Fashioned. We also do a cocktail called
the Rye Opener, a recipe I came up with. It's
made with a vanilla, brown sugar and espresso
reduction, rye whiskey, a touch of Fernet, Fee
Brothers black walnut bitters and a lemon twist,
served over a Death Star ice sphere.
In what ways do the kitchen and bar
coordinate at L'Opossum?
Bartending has changed quite a bit since I first
got into the business. We weren't using nearly
the variety of ingredients that we do today.
Oftentimes these ingredients require some
amount of prep work-cooking, smoking,
drawing or blending for a puree-and the
kitchen staff often steps up to help with that.
They also love being tasters for the drinks-off
the clock, of course.
Is bartending an individual or team sport?
Most definitely a team sport. We aren't offering
just drinks and dinner. We are offering an
experience. Everyone has a role or part to play,
and no one person's job is more important than
the next. We all understand and appreciate
what we are striving for, and we are committed
to fulfilling the vision of L'Opossum.
How do you elevate the drinks experience to
match the dining experience at L'Opossum?
We pay close attention to details, including
glassware and ice garnish. In our " Twin Peaks " inspired
cocktail-the Laura Palmer-we add a
playful twist of plastic wrap to the glass.
What are some of the guests' favorite cocktails?
Other than the ones I've mentioned, we have a
super refreshing cocktail we call Dranks Gone
Wild on Cabo made by Beth Dixon, a bartender
here. It has Espolon, Coco Lopez, grapefruit,
sake and Bittermen's Tiki bitters with fresh lime.
What are some of your go-to's as a bartender?
For guests who prefer a citrus-based or lighter
cocktail, I use Bombay Sapphire gin. I find that
the botanical qualities plus citrus work nicely.
For a more dessert-style cocktail, I suggest
the Hooty Hoo. It's like a White Russian on
steroids made using Grey Goose vodka, Marie
Brizard white cacao, Fee Brothers chocolate
bitters, Kahlúa, cream and a little Yoo-hoo. It's
got a black lava salt rim, with fresh nutmeg
ground on top.
-Annie Tobey
Spirited Virginia Q3 2022

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