The Roanoker January/February 2024 - 60
Dining
techniques and international spice profiles
more closely reflect Polfelt's participation in
culinary competitions, which has afforded
him the opportunity to travel and inspired
his seminal work leading up to representing
Team USA at the IKA/Culinary Olympics in
Stuttgart, Germany, this year. (Read more about
the Culinary Olympics in Anthony Giorgetti's feature
on page 44.)
The Chicken Schnitzel is a must-order dish
Korean Pork Spare Ribs
Sour Cream & Caramelized
Onion Dip
that reflects Polfelt's culinary know-how and
multi-cultural approach. It features a crisp yet
light breaded chicken cutlet reminiscent of a
typical German or Austrian schnitzel but is
dolloped with a tangy Alabama White Sauce
and flanked by vinegar-braised collard greens
and cheesy heirloom grits (sourced from local
outfit Gracious Grains). It all adds up to the
kind of well-balanced dish that really sings
when you combine all the components in each
forkful. (Polfelt's oldest daughter has Celiac
disease, so the Chicken Schnitzel is made in
a dedicated gluten-free fryer and is denoted
as 100% gluten-free on the menu along with
several other dishes.)
Don't sleep on the pork spareribs, which
Ted Polfelt and one of his coowners,
Crenshaw Reed
The Pink
Bowtie
Crème Brûlée
glazed with an herb-infused honey redolent of
cardamom, star anise and rosemary and garnished
with a peanut crumb and fennel pollen.
It was paired with a chilled rice salad spiced
with Vadouvan, a sweet-smoky masala that
complements the raisins studded throughout.
To reflect the winter season, it's hit with
a maple glaze and walnut crumb and served
with a warm Hoppin' John rice and black-eyed
peas dish, a nod to the traditional Southern
New Year's Day dish that's eaten for good luck.
The Southern influences reflect Polfelt's
roots: He grew up in Roanoke, attended Patrick
Henry High School, landed his first kitchen
job at Brambleton Deli and started his career
as the executive chef at 419 West. But Brood's
European-leaning inspiration, chef-driven
owes its excellent char and toothsome bark to
chef Josh Wasky's barbecue talents. He starts
by braising the meat, then chills it down and
coats it before frying it, yielding a crackly
exterior that easily yields to the fall-aparttender
meat within. An early version of the
dish paid homage to Buffalo wings with blue
cheese crumbles, celery and celery leaves and a
Buffalo sauce spiked with Old Bay Seasoning,
a nod to Wasky's Baltimore roots. This winter
the spareribs have taken on a Korean barbecue
style profile and are plated with chives and
chili oil, but the Buffalo version will return for
spring-summer.
For a sweet ending, follow one server's
suggestion to combine two desserts: Pair the
Belgian waffle bread pudding with maple
vanilla sauce with a scoop of homemade banana
pudding ice cream. It evokes the kind of warmmeets-cool
vibes that'll keep you coming back
for more, week after week. I
BROOD RESTAURANT & BAR
Tues - Sat * Bar @ 4PM * Dining Room @ 5PM
210 E. Main Street, Salem
540-404-4166 * broodrestaurantandbar.com
LAYLA KHOURY-HANOLD is a James Beard Award nominated writer who has written for Condé Nast Traveler, Food52, Food Network and The Chicago Tribune, among others. Follow her on
Instagram @words_with_layla or on X @words_withlayla.
60
january/february 2024
TheRoanoker.com
http://www.broodrestaurantandbar.com
http://www.TheRoanoker.com
The Roanoker January/February 2024
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of The Roanoker January/February 2024
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - Cover1
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - Cover2
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - 3
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - 4
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - 5
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - 6
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - 7
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - 8
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The Roanoker January/February 2024 - 66
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR1
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR2
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR3
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR4
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR5
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR6
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR7
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR8
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR9
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR10
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR11
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR12
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR13
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR14
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR15
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR16
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR17
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR18
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR19
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR20
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR21
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR22
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR23
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR24
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR25
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR26
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR27
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR28
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR29
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR30
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR31
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR32
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR33
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR34
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR35
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR36
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR37
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR38
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR39
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR40
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR41
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR42
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR43
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR44
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR45
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR46
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR47
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR48
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The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR50
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR51
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR52
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR53
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR54
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR55
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR56
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR57
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR58
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR59
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR60
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR61
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR62
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR63
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR64
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR65
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR66
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR67
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR68
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR69
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR70
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR71
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR72
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR73
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR74
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR75
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR76
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR77
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR78
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR79
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR80
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR81
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR82
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR83
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR84
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR85
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR86
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR87
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR88
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR89
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR90
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR91
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - VBR92
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - Cover3
The Roanoker January/February 2024 - Cover4
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