BW Confidential - Issue #1 - April 2010 - (Page 28)

Insight: make-up Trends Key drivers An analysis of six major trends in today’s color cosmetics market There’s an application for that Industry watchers say the formula itself is no longer enough to convince consumers to buy make-up, and that the sensation of the how a mascara, lipstick or foundation is applied will become indistinguishable from the product itself. This has given rise to the term ‘packlication’ in industry circles. Examples include the much-talked about vibrating mascaras which hit the market in 2008, as well as products with their own special applicators, such as L’Oréal Paris’ Roll On Accord Parfait foundation, which boasts a sponge roller to ensure the right dose of product is delivered to the skin and that it is evenly distributed. Convenience and the size of product are also becoming increasingly important. Hourglass Cosmetics, for example, has come up with a flat format lipstick that can easily fit into a back pocket. The skin enhancers The demand for formulas that do more than just conceal and provide interesting shades continues to grow. “There is a need for new technology and innovation that goes beyond color in creating playfulness and skincare benefits, such as filler and antiwrinkle benefits,” says Smashbox Cosmetics vice president and managing director Asia Pacific, Middle East & Africa and global travel retail Marie-Clothilde Brulé. Trend and consulting group The Benchmarking Company founder and creative director Alisa Marie Beyer agrees: “make-up is moving into the area of cosmeceuticals, anti-aging, and the plumping of lips and cheeks.” She cites US-based BeautyFusion’s brand, which markets eyeshadows that claim to tighten skin and uses the term ‘colorceuticals’. More mainstream brands are also focusing on these sorts of benefits and not just in the obvious area of foundation. Dior, for example, claims its new Extase mascara repairs eyelashes. Lancôme also recently launched Hypnôse Precious Cells mascara, which is based on stem-cell technology developed for its facial skincare line Absolue Precious Cells, which was introduced in 2009. The brand claims the product ‘regenerates’ the eyelashes. Similarly, Lancôme’s Crème brilliance lipstick is based on the Proxylane ingredient, which was first used in its skincare. In addition to the physical benefits, UK-based research company Mintel predicts that cosmetics that make the wearer feel better, or what it calls “mood beauty” will also come to the fore. This means products offering psychological benefits and ingredients that act on consumers’ neurotransmitters, for example textures, temperatures or sounds that affect mood or make-up innovations that ‘switch on and off’. High on heritage As in other beauty and luxury categories, consumers have turned away from ostentation and are paying more attention to a brand’s heritage and product quality. “There is a growing importance of what we call the ‘back story’, where people are interested in the artisanal aspect in terms of ingredients. They’re asking what’s the story, why is it special? Is it handmade?“ says The Benchmarking Company’s Beyer. Dior has done this well with its spring make-up collection, which features lacelike effects in its eyeshadow compacts. Shu Uemura has also gone back to its roots with its latest collection of false eyelashes—its luxury editions goldglam leaf and snow twist both feature small crystals. 28 April 2010 - N°1 - BW Confidential

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of BW Confidential - Issue #1 - April 2010

Update - Brand and retail recap
Take note - Market facts, figures and trends
Launches - The latest fragrance, skincare and make-up launches
Best of BW - Market highlights
Interview - Sephora international & development md Olivier Schaeffer
Insight: make-up - Category overview
 - Industry viewpoint
 - Trends
Wellness report - Overview
 - Industry roundtable
 - Spa case studies
Travel retail - Europe: little chance of a rebound
Market watch: Western Europe - Regional analysis
 - Germany
 - France
 - UK
 - Spain
 - Italy
Radar - Six up-and-coming beauty brands
Packaging special -  Industry analysis
 - Innovation
Last word - UBS analyst Nik Modi's outlook for 2010

BW Confidential - Issue #1 - April 2010