BW Confidential - Issue #2 - May/June 2010 - (Page 46)

Fragrance creation Regulations credit: stock.xchng of Chemicals (GHS), which requires new labeling for substances in 2010 and for mixtures in 2015. IFRA, however, is confident regarding these upcoming regulations. “[Regarding REACH] we will be ready […] for the natural and chemical materials concerned […] and we are confident that we will respect the deadlines [regarding labeling], despite the complexity of the task,” says IFRA director general Jean-Pierre Houri. On top of all these mandatory requirements imposed by regulators, IFRA is also reviewing its own Code of Practice and Standards in the framework of providing better self-regulation for the industry. On this issue IFRA has many critics. From all sides Increased self-regulation combined with obligations to comply with REACH continue to cause problems for fragrance houses by Claire Thévenin “ n Europe the fragrance industry is up against regulatory difficulties on two fronts: externally from the authorities in Brussels and internally from self-regulation body the International Fragrance Association (IFRA). This has given rise to a frustration among perfume houses who feel that their creativity has been jeopardized and their time and budgets impinged upon all in the name of regulations that may have gone too far. In terms of REACH, the European regulation on chemical products, industry players are currently preparing for the first phase of registration, which will end next December. This process concerns only substances produced or imported to the European Union in quantities of more than 1,000 tons per year, as well as Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC). In fact, there are very few perfumery substances that fit in either of these two categories. However, there is still anger that REACH is treating Natural Complex Substances I (around 150 out of the 815 perfumery substances concerned by REACH) in the same way as synthetic chemical substances. “Brussels is putting lavender producers in the same boat as the German chemical industry. The legislation should have been adapted to our sector. The Green European members of parliament, who want to defend nature, will bring about the demise of natural ingredient manufacturers,” bemoans Francis Thibaudeau, deputy director of the perfumery division of Robertet. He also underlines that REACH is costing a lot for the small- to medium-sized companies, while the big players will always have the means to pay for whatever tests they are asked for. In addition, he says that there is a clear contradiction between the Cosmetics Directive and REACH in regard to animal testing: while the Directive prohibits animal testing, REACH requires it. The industry is also working towards the obligations imposed by the Global Harmonized System of Classification and Labeling Everyone, IFRA included, toes the party line. No one, individually or collectively wants to risk having a product that will start something off. Because of this regulatory straitjacket, there is a uniformity of the fragrance offer Robertet perfumery division deputy director Francis Thibaudeau Some believe that the association is trying too hard to renew amendments to its Standards too often. This has serious consequences for fragrance houses given that IFRA’s standards are the industry reference (most brands ask their suppliers to create fragrances that are in line with IFRA’s Code of Practice). According to IFRA, around 90% of fragrances worldwide are compliant with IFRA Standards. Houri defends the association’s actions, in particular regarding the 44th amendment—the most recent. “It is the last IFRA amendment that will be so cumbersome and this was because of the reformulation of the old standards accor- ” 46 May-June 2010 - N°2 - BW Confidential

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of BW Confidential - Issue #2 - May/June 2010

- Brand and retail news recap
Take note
- Market facts, figures and trends
The latest fragrance, skincare and make-up launches
Best of BW
- Market highlights
- Clarins Fragrance Group president Joël Palix
Insight : skincare
- Category overview
- Industry viewpoint
- Trends
- Training in spas
- Spa case studies
Market watch : Asia
- Regional analysis
- Japan
- China
- South Korea
Focus : Fragrance creation
- Fragrance regulations
- Perfumer roundtable
- Six up-and-coming beauty brands
Travel retail
- Asia regional roundup
- Interview with Korea duty-free
Last word
- Morning Star equity analyst Erin Swanson on beauty’s threats and opportunities

BW Confidential - Issue #2 - May/June 2010