BW Confidential - Issue #2 - May/June 2010 - (Page 48)

Fragrance creation Perfumer roundtable The inside view We ask six perfumers for their thoughts on innovation and how the fragrance creation process could be improved How could the creation process be improved? Polge: People should be more daring. Many new scents don’t have a trail and you can’t recognize them. Those that test well aren’t always good sellers; we should trust our intuition and focus on products with a strong identity. Testing has its place—you need to know your market, but you can’t ask consumers to tell you everything. Morillas: Having face time with the client is most important. Ideally, a brand would tell us what direction they want to go in, because often we end up playing cat and mouse. Some brands are very clear about what they want and this is inspiring. The perfumer should know the brand he is working with by heart, and vice versa. In the past the relationship was more direct and there was less involvement from marketing. We are going back to that; having fusion with a brand happens when the chain of those involved is much shorter. Flores-Roux: There’s too much clutter with all the flankers and we’re all to blame: the brands, us and the retailers. In the past, we could track and memorize fragrances, but now we can’t. It’s about allocation of resources: brands would be better off spending on solid creative launches, rather than putting money into limited editions. The pace is so fast that it is killing the market. Olivier Polge, IFF Alberto Morillas, Firmenich Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Givaudan Constance GeorgesPicot, Cosmo International Fragrances Ellena: What I would criticize is that brands often send people to us who don’t know about perfume, and don’t know how to smell; it’s hard to work with that. Georges-Picot: The trend for “one-sizefits-all” fragrances has created confusion. By better analyzing the needs and image of our clients, we can help them differentiate themselves. Monet: There can be communication barriers with clients. It would be fruitful to have a shared language so we can understand each other better. There is no defined vocabulary for the sense of smell and the language is often borrowed from other lexicons. Alexandra Monet, Drom 48 Bernard Ellena, Symrise May-June 2010 - N°2 - BW Confidential

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of BW Confidential - Issue #2 - May/June 2010

- Brand and retail news recap
Take note
- Market facts, figures and trends
The latest fragrance, skincare and make-up launches
Best of BW
- Market highlights
- Clarins Fragrance Group president Joël Palix
Insight : skincare
- Category overview
- Industry viewpoint
- Trends
- Training in spas
- Spa case studies
Market watch : Asia
- Regional analysis
- Japan
- China
- South Korea
Focus : Fragrance creation
- Fragrance regulations
- Perfumer roundtable
- Six up-and-coming beauty brands
Travel retail
- Asia regional roundup
- Interview with Korea duty-free
Last word
- Morning Star equity analyst Erin Swanson on beauty’s threats and opportunities

BW Confidential - Issue #2 - May/June 2010