BW Confidential - Issue #4 - October/December 2010 - (Page 86)

Last word What’s next? In our guest column, market research company Mintel head beauty consultant Nica Lewis analyzes the next big trends and examines where the industry should look for inspiration credit: istock • Trends on the up Cosmetic science continues to capitalize on advances in biochemistry and medicine, including cosmetic, prenatal and transplant surgery. Led by cosmeceutical and doctor brands, new products are adopting medical or pharmaceutical grade actives and next generation nano-technology. There are also more launches of at-home kits, “cures” and beauty gadgets. Many beauty gadgets are marketed as at-home alternatives to professional skincare treatments that use technology borrowed from other fields (LED, muscle stimulation, sonic wave technology). In Japan beauty devices are also available for on-the-go treatments (such as hydration). In skincare, there is a growing trend for special applicators to enhance results and help ingredients penetrate the epidermis—and this is not just in the anti-cellulite category. Other types of applicators offer convenience (cleansing or exfoliating). Design influences from the world of multi-media, such as mobile phones and MP3 players, as well as from medicine, (syringes) are also making their mark on beauty. • Trends on their way out Mineral make-up is present in all distribution channels and at all price points in most markets. From an innovation standpoint, mineral make-up has experienced the first wave of new product launch activity (Bare Escentuals, Jane Iredale, Sheer Cover and Physicians Formula were among the first to create mineralbased ranges). Since 2007, global and niche brands alike have been adding mineral lines to their existing product portfolios. 86 Launch activity in mineral make-up started to plateau in 2009 and ‘me-too’ launches now dominate. The aim is to extend mineral make-up’s appeal beyond ‘naturalness’ Mintel head beauty consultant Nica Lewis “ • New consumer habits The percentage of women who always buy mineral make-up is still low. This may rise as it becomes more widely known that mineral make-up extends to mascara, lipstick and lipgloss—currently, many consumers are only aware of mineral face products and eye shadow. The main stated reasons for use of mineral make-up are that it is healthier for the skin, and is made from natural ingredients. One person in four in the UK and Germany has made a repeat purchase of mineral items, whereas it is below one in five in France. Spain and Italy see the highest percentage of women who made a repeat purchase. • Influences from other industries Trends from fashion—we’re seeing a new generation of fashion and cosmetic collaborations (Burberry, TopShop, Dolce & Gabbana, Tom Ford) as well as the perennial influence of seasonal colors from global prestige brands (Dior, Chanel, YSL). Trends from the automotive world are also influencing cosmetics. One of the ‘loudest’ stands at the Cosmoprof Bologna show this year was Babyliss PRO. The brand previewed its Volare hair dryers powered by Ferrari engines. The high-performance dryers are designed for maximum airflow, minimum weight and low vibration. As the only hair dryer engine with ball bearing support, it claims to provide longer motor life. The hair dryers have a Turbo Boost feature as well as six heat and speed settings. The V1 and V2 models will be available this summer in Italy and the US. While a Ferrari engine isn’t exactly the best thing for the environment, the brand plans to launch an eco hair dryer in November. n Launch activity started to plateau in 2009 and ‘me-too’ launches now dominate. The natural and ‘free from’ formulas and ‘suitable for sensitive skin’ claims contribute to the perception that the products are better for skin health. In 2010, selected new mineral makeup launches are pushing innovation into new territory and giving new energy to this “trend in fatigue”. The aim is to extend mineral make-up’s appeal beyond ‘naturalness’. ” October-December 2010 - N°4 - BW Confidential

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of BW Confidential - Issue #4 - October/December 2010

- Brand & retail news recap
- Digital digest
- Companies on the move
Take note
- Market facts, figures & trends
Best of BW
- Highlights from our e-publication
- The latest in fragrance, skincare & make-up
- BPI president Rémy Gomez
Insight: fragrance
- Category overview
- Retailing
- Industry viewpoint
- New opportunities
- Launch roundup
- Airport Spas
- Spa case studies
- New store concepts
Travel retail
- Market overview
- Retail strategies
- Interview: World Duty Free & Aldeasa
Show preview
- TFWA World Exhibition
- Six up-and-coming beauty brands
Market watch: India
- Country overview
- Industry roundtable
- Retailing analysis
- Sector outlook
- Sustainability
Last word
- Mintel head beauty consultant Nica Lewis

BW Confidential - Issue #4 - October/December 2010