BW Confidential - Issue #8 - October/December 2011 - (Page 101)

Sustainability Packaging Where to now? Brands and suppliers debate sustainability in cosmetics packaging and look at how the issue is set to evolve by Laëtitia Bonnet-Mundschau John Delfausse, chief environmental officer Estée Lauder Corporate Packaging & vp global package development for Aveda, Bumble & bumble, Darphin, Ojon & Origins Francis Quinn, director of sustainable development L’Oréal How can luxury brands better communicate on sustainability to consumers? Nicholas Thorne, director of innovation & development Albéa Isabelle Orhan, director marketing, innovation & development Promens Malcolm Sinclair, export sales & marketing director at papermaker Tullis Russell JD: We follow the cradle-to-cradle principle when it comes to packaging design and execution. This means responsible material sourcing, manufacturing practices and product stewardship. Our brands communicate this in different ways: some say on their packaging that they use recycled materials or renewable energy, while others may communicate that message through their website. Many brands don’t mention what they are doing, but just want to do what is responsible. FQ: In terms of communication, consumers don’t make a direct link between luxury and sustainability. Brands need to show that they are legitimate in their approach and use fundamental elements of sustainability, like the idea of craftsmanship. Some of our brands talk about their engagement on their website or on their packaging. However, brands’ communication on sustainability could be better brought out at the point-of-sale and on social networks. NT: There isn’t one answer, as our clients range from those who want to talk about sustainability to those who don’t know a lot about it. We put programs into place that offer a range of options to our clients. Some brands never communicate on the raw materials, but want to improve their environmental footprint. Those who are the most engaged in this area can add labels to their packs or explain that it was manufactured with PCR (post consumer recycled) content, for example. Sometimes they choose a material that makes the pack look more sustainable (like a polymer with wood particles). However, greenwashing is still much in evidence, and so we need to develop a more evidence-based communication. The plastic industry, for example, could be more proactive by putting a charter into place. IO: Luxury brands have a paradoxical attitude: they want sustainable development, but it is hard for them abandon luxury codes, such as the weight of their products or sophisticated decoration. They don’t exploit what could be new codes. In terms of communication, it is hard for them to make specific claims—apart from those brands that are very engaged in sustainable development. To better communicate, they need to define a new aesthetic—so new codes. MS: Brands are looking at how their packaging is produced to make sure that every aspect is fully thought through for its environmental impact, but also for the impact on wider society. They want to be good corporate citizens and this is a vital part of managing a brand’s reputation. Brands can communicate with logos on packaging. In the UK, the FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) symbol gives a guarantee to consumers. Brands are also launching campaigns about their sustainability initiatives and give them coverage in corporate reports. n n n 101 October-December 2011 - N°8 - BW Confidential

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of BW Confidential - Issue #8 - October/December 2011

- Brand & retail news recap
- Companies on the move
Take note
- Market facts, figures & trends
Best of BW
- Highlights from our e-publication
- The latest in fragrance, skincare & make-up
- Estée Lauder Companies group president international Cédric Prouvé
Insight: Fragrance
- Category overview
- Retailer roundtable
- Retailing strategies
- Rare fragrance brands
- Launch roundup
- Spa chains
- Spa case studies
- E-commerce
- Store concepts
Travel retail
- Sector analysis
- Hainan & China Duty Free Group
- Retail concepts
- Passenger habits
- Industry experts on harnassing the power of social networks
- Six up-and-coming beauty brands
Market watch: Russia
- Country overview
- Prestige retailing
- Industry viewpoint
- Market outlook
- Sustainabilty
- Trends
Last word
- Buyology Inc president & co-founder Donna Sturgess

BW Confidential - Issue #8 - October/December 2011