BW Confidential - Issue #9 - March/April 2012 - (Page 16)

Update Companies on the move Italy’s Mavive bullish on fragrance for 2012 Italian company Mavive is to expand its Zippo and Police fragrance brands this year. For lighter brand Zippo, whose first scent for men launched last year, Mavive hopes to more than double sales to reach €14m at wholesale in 2012 (wholesale sales in 2011 were €6m). Part of the growth will come from new market openings, notably in Russia, India and China, as well as an expansion of the product range. This year, the company will launch a women’s fragrance for Zippo and a new men’s scent, On the Road (pictured). A third men’s line called Into the Blue will also be unveiled, specifically tailored to Asian consumers. In addition, the company is considering launching a youth line for Zippo in 2013. As for the Police brand, Mavive will complete the international roll out of the men’s To Be fragrance, which launched in July last year. It will also unveil a women’s fragrance for the To Be line and a second men’s scent called To Be The Illusionist. The Police brand now accounts for some 38% of Mavive’s sales. This year also sees Mavive celebrate its 25th anniversary, and to mark the event the company has announced that it will create a new brand related to a cultural project in the city of Venice, where it has its headquarters. As a result of these new projects, Mavive is expecting to register sales growth in the 30% range for 2012, with wholesale sales forecast to come in at €35m for the year. s Mavive will launch a new men’s scent for Zippo called On The Road Investment to boost growth at Etat Libre d’Orange French niche fragrance company Etat Libre d’Orange is to expand its distribution and open more boutiques thanks to investment from Singapore-based tobacco giant Goldsilk Holdings. Goldsilk took a 30% stake in the company in October 2011, marking its first foray into the fragrance and cosmetics sector. The financing enabled Etat Libre d’Orange to buy its flagship store in Paris, and founder Etienne de Swardt says he plans to open more standalone stores in 2013. Etat Libre d’Orange currently has around 300 doors in Italy, Russia, Benelux, the UK Switzerland, Germany and the US. “In the long term we aim to reach 600 to 800 doors worldwide while retaining our alternative positioning,” says de Swardt. “With the arrival of Goldsilk Holdings we are building a structured approach to the business that will allow us to develop our creativity without corrupting our identity. Our ambition is to stay true to our alternative roots, while improving our merchandising and our visibility,” de Swardt explains. On the product front, Etat Libre d’Orange launched a fragrance in homage to its flagship store in January. Called Archives 69, the fragrance is named after the store’s address (69 rue des Archives) in the Marais district of Paris. The scent includes notes of mandarin orange, pepper leaf, incense, musk and patchouli. It was composed by Christine Nagel of Mane (Etat Libre d’Orange works exclusively with fragrance house Mane for its scents). “Our brand personality is a mix of frivolity and edginess with formulas that cost between €300 and €400 per kilo; this combination means that the perfumer can really have fun,” says de Swardt. Upcoming fragrance launches include Bijou Romantique (by Mane perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui) in time for Valentine’s Day, followed by Fils de Dieu du Riz et des Agrumes this spring. A “prestige flanker” version of the brand’s Putain des Palaces fragrance, called Ultra Slut, is to roll out in June. The company has also announced that it will sign a second brand ambassador in 2013. In 2010 Etat Libre d’Orange partnered with actress Tilda Swinton, who co-created and fronted its Like This fragrance. n March-April 2012 - N°9 - BW Confidential s Thanks to its new investor, Etat Libre d’Orange is to expand distribution while aiming to keep its alternative positioning 16

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of BW Confidential - Issue #9 - March/April 2012

Cover
Comment
Update - Brand & retail news recap
- Companies on the move
Take note - Market facts, figures & trends
Best of BW - Highlights from our e-publication
Launches - The latest in fragrance, skincare & make-up
Interview - HSN gm of beauty & merchandising strategy Betsy Olum
Insight: Make-up - Category overview
- Nails
- Retailing
- The latest trends
Wellness - Online marketing
- Spa case studies
Retail - Pos technologies
- Store concepts
Digital - Social media strategies
Market watch: Brazil fragrance - Country overview
- Fragrance industry roundtable
- Prestige fragrance retailing
Strategy spotlight - Case studies to inspire
Travel retail - Americas regional overview
- Brazilian travelers
- Interview: Nuance Group North America...... Andrew Rattner
Radar - Six up-and-coming beauty brands
Packaging - Electronics in beauty packs
- Latest innovations
Last word - Crépuscule ceo Christophe Lerouge & creative director Olivier Boré

BW Confidential - Issue #9 - March/April 2012