BW Confidential - Issue #13 - March/April 2013 - (Page 46)
Insight: Make-up
Increasing usage
Coming back for more
How can the industry encourage consumers
to test, try, and buy more make-up?
by Alissa Demorest
P
enetration rates in the make-up category
could be higher, say analysts. They add
that the first place to start to boost usage is
in retail, by making the shopping experience
easier. French perfumery chain Beauty
Success has set out to do this with its new
store concept featuring generic wooden
merchandising units into which make-up
brands can insert their displays. “This was
done in order to avoid the ‘cacophony’
of make-up displays that tend to come
in different shapes and sizes and are not
harmonious on the shop floor,” explains
Beauty Success ceo Philippe Georges.
Estée Lauder-owned MAC global brand
president Karen Buglisi also sees store layout
as being instrumental. “There are a lot of
customers who know our brand and love
coming into the store to play and discover, but
then there is also a whole segment who want
[the shopping experience] to be a little bit
easier,” she explains. MAC is testing ‘finders’
or signage for each category in their stores
that will facilitate navigation. These finders are
inserted into the walls and will feature all of
the brand’s 10 categories. MAC is piloting the
new system at its Fifth Avenue boutique
in New York will roll out the concept to all
of its stores worldwide in the next two to
three years.
Cutting through the clutter
Creating a more streamlined offer with fewer,
but more targeted, products is another way
to draw consumers to the category. But critics
say that the uniform product offer across
brands does little to excite shoppers. “Walk
into a store and you see a generic shade
and product mix with very much of the same
thing from one display to the next. We need
to get back to the time when brands made a
statement about what they did,” comments
46
“
credit: stock.xchng
Retailers are getting
extremely lazy. They
may take a new make-up
brand on board because it
has an original offer, but
once the brand is in, they
begin asking for items that
everyone else has
”
Genealogy partner Brian Fox-Krawczyk
US-based supplier Genealogy partner Brian
Fox-Krawczyk. A European brand executive
agrees: “Retailers are getting extremely lazy.
They may take a new make-up brand on
board because it has an original offer, but
once the brand is in, they begin asking for
items that everyone else has, like primers. This
only confuses the consumer and means that a
lot of brands’ enthusiasm and creativity is lost
in the process.”
This perceived sameness could lead
consumers to forgo traditional retail in favor
of shopping online, where a brand has more
creative freedom with its product mix. Indeed,
some make-up brands adapt their ranges to
the different channels, for example, offering
more adventurous color selections on their
website—often colors that the retailers
chose not to stock. “Brands—small, big
and niche—are looking at ways to market
products online. It gives them more creative
freedom and also allows them to make more
money, as retailers take such a high cut. In
the long run [the uniform assortment] that
retailers are offering is short-sighted,” says
Genealogy’s Fox-Krawczyk.
Market-research company NPD Group vice
March-April 2013 - N°13 - BW Confidential
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of BW Confidential - Issue #13 - March/April 2013
Cover
Comment
Contents
Update
- Brand & retail news recap
- Companies on the move
Take note Market facts, figures & trends
Best of BW Highlights from our e-publication
Launches The latest in fragrance, skincare & make-up
Interview Natura Cosméticos evp José Vicente Marino
Insight: Make-up
- Category overview
- The latest trends
- Social media
- Retail viewpoint
- Retail case studies
- Increasing usage
Retail
- European perfumeries
- Store concepts
Digital Mobile strategies and brand case studies
Strategy spotlight Trends to inspire
Market watch: US
- Country overview
- Department stores
- Specialty stores
- Industry viewpoint
Emerging markets Company profile: Jequiti
Radar A profile of six up-and-coming beauty brands
Travel retail: Brazilian travelers
- Overview
- Passenger profiles
Packaging Designs for travel retail
Last word The Beauty Company’s Alisa Marie Beyer on new ways to converse with consumers
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