BW Confidential - Issue #13 - March/April 2013 - (Page 46)

Insight: Make-up Increasing usage Coming back for more How can the industry encourage consumers to test, try, and buy more make-up? by Alissa Demorest P enetration rates in the make-up category could be higher, say analysts. They add that the first place to start to boost usage is in retail, by making the shopping experience easier. French perfumery chain Beauty Success has set out to do this with its new store concept featuring generic wooden merchandising units into which make-up brands can insert their displays. “This was done in order to avoid the ‘cacophony’ of make-up displays that tend to come in different shapes and sizes and are not harmonious on the shop floor,” explains Beauty Success ceo Philippe Georges. Estée Lauder-owned MAC global brand president Karen Buglisi also sees store layout as being instrumental. “There are a lot of customers who know our brand and love coming into the store to play and discover, but then there is also a whole segment who want [the shopping experience] to be a little bit easier,” she explains. MAC is testing ‘finders’ or signage for each category in their stores that will facilitate navigation. These finders are inserted into the walls and will feature all of the brand’s 10 categories. MAC is piloting the new system at its Fifth Avenue boutique in New York will roll out the concept to all of its stores worldwide in the next two to three years. Cutting through the clutter Creating a more streamlined offer with fewer, but more targeted, products is another way to draw consumers to the category. But critics say that the uniform product offer across brands does little to excite shoppers. “Walk into a store and you see a generic shade and product mix with very much of the same thing from one display to the next. We need to get back to the time when brands made a statement about what they did,” comments 46 “ credit: stock.xchng Retailers are getting extremely lazy. They may take a new make-up brand on board because it has an original offer, but once the brand is in, they begin asking for items that everyone else has ” Genealogy partner Brian Fox-Krawczyk US-based supplier Genealogy partner Brian Fox-Krawczyk. A European brand executive agrees: “Retailers are getting extremely lazy. They may take a new make-up brand on board because it has an original offer, but once the brand is in, they begin asking for items that everyone else has, like primers. This only confuses the consumer and means that a lot of brands’ enthusiasm and creativity is lost in the process.” This perceived sameness could lead consumers to forgo traditional retail in favor of shopping online, where a brand has more creative freedom with its product mix. Indeed, some make-up brands adapt their ranges to the different channels, for example, offering more adventurous color selections on their website—often colors that the retailers chose not to stock. “Brands—small, big and niche—are looking at ways to market products online. It gives them more creative freedom and also allows them to make more money, as retailers take such a high cut. In the long run [the uniform assortment] that retailers are offering is short-sighted,” says Genealogy’s Fox-Krawczyk. Market-research company NPD Group vice March-April 2013 - N°13 - BW Confidential

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of BW Confidential - Issue #13 - March/April 2013

Cover
Comment
Contents
Update
- Brand & retail news recap
- Companies on the move
Take note Market facts, figures & trends
Best of BW Highlights from our e-publication
Launches The latest in fragrance, skincare & make-up
Interview Natura Cosméticos evp José Vicente Marino
Insight: Make-up
- Category overview
- The latest trends
- Social media
- Retail viewpoint
- Retail case studies
- Increasing usage
Retail
- European perfumeries
- Store concepts
Digital Mobile strategies and brand case studies
Strategy spotlight Trends to inspire
Market watch: US
- Country overview
- Department stores
- Specialty stores
- Industry viewpoint
Emerging markets Company profile: Jequiti
Radar A profile of six up-and-coming beauty brands
Travel retail: Brazilian travelers
- Overview
- Passenger profiles
Packaging Designs for travel retail
Last word The Beauty Company’s Alisa Marie Beyer on new ways to converse with consumers

BW Confidential - Issue #13 - March/April 2013

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