BW Confidential - Issue #15 - September/October 2013 - (Page 10)

Update Companies on the move By Kilian in retail mode Paris-based niche fragrance brand By Kilian is mapping out an ambitious standalone retail network. Following the brand’s first standalone store, which opened in Moscow in November 2012, By Kilian will launch a second boutique in New York City’s Meatpacking district in September. The store, on Washington Street, will cover around 50m2 (538ft2), and the brand will create a fragrance and candle exclusively for the boutique. The US market is strategic for the brand, according to founder Kilian Hennessy; with 40 doors, the country currently makes up around one-third of the company’s sales. The brand also launched its e-boutique in the US in July. In addition, By Kilian is scouting locations in the UAE for future standalone openings, notably at Dubai Mall, at Dubai Duty Free and in Abu Dhabi. (Also in the Middle East, the brand will open two new doors in Khobar and Jeddah, Saudi Arabia before the end of this year.) It also hopes to open stores in Los s In addition to expanding its standalone Angeles and London and its goal network, By Kilian is launching its 22nd fragrance and several limited-edition coffrets is to have 10 of its own boutiques within the next 10 years. “I would eventually like to exit department-store distribution altogether,” explains Hennessy. In terms of new launches, By Kilian will roll out its 22nd fragrance in October called Playing with the Devil—the fourth scent in the brand’s In the Garden of Good and Evil collection. In time for the end-of-year holidays, it will also unveil two limited-edition offers: a coffret that is a jewel-like clutch featuring one of five bestselling scents (with prices ranging from $195 to $235), and four mini-discovery sets that are classified by olfactory family, with each set containing three 7.5ml vials (€95). “We like to do limited editions because, as a small company, it’s dangerous to have too much stock,” Hennessy explains. By Kilian reported sales of €13m in 2012 and has 200 doors worldwide. RPG widens global scope New York-based retail design, developer and manufacturer RPG continues to expand its international reach. The company now operates a network of offices throughout North America and two locations in Asia, in Shenzhen, China and Hong Kong. RPG is looking to open offices in London, UK and Paris, France and also has its eye on Latin America. This year, RPG designed and manufactured a new retail identity for multi-ethnic beauty brand Fashion Fair. The project includes new countertops and a shop-in-shop concept; two shops have already opened, in Macy’s Herald Square flagship in New York City and at Morley’s department store in London, UK. RPG will revamp more than 560 Fashion Fair s RPG has recently revamped Fashion Fair’s retail identity (pictured, left) and designed new countertop displays for Benefit Cosmetics (pictured, above) 10 counters worldwide. The company also created countertops for LVMH-owned Benefit Cosmetics this year, and is rolling out new displays for luxury skincare brand La Prairie in 2014, in all of the brand’s markets. Ceo Bruce E. Teitelbaum explains that RPG is currently focusing on its branding and product creation expertise. “We want to position ourselves as a full creative and manufacturing resource globally, so by providing additional services, we can satisfy all of our clients’ needs on an ongoing basis,” he says. He adds that RPG’s point of difference is that its approach also starts with the product. “We build and design from the ground up around the product,” Teitelbaum explains. RPG has just finalized a new brand identity and primary and secondary packaging for Cargo Cosmetics, as well as for haircare brand Oscar Blandi. Beauty currently accounts for 50% of RPG’s sales. n September-October 2013 - N°15 - BW Confidential

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of BW Confidential - Issue #15 - September/October 2013

Cover
Comment
Contents
Update
Brand & retail news recap
Companies on the move
Take note Market facts, figures & trends
Best of BW Highlights from our e-publication
Launches The latest in fragrance, skincare & make-up
Interview Origins, Ojon & Darphin global president and gm Jane Lauder
Insight: Fragrance creation
Category overview
Industry views
Emerging markets
Consumer data
Role of the perfumer
Retail
Store strategy
Store concepts
Digital Beauty apps
Market watch: Chinese consumers
Overview
Shopping habits
Online sales
Radar A profile of six up-and-coming beauty brands
Travel retail: Inflight sales
Sector analysis
Channel innovations
Emerging markets Company profile: Marico
Packaging
Make-up analysis
Make-up innovations
Last word The Young Group’s Karen Young on industry trends and technology

BW Confidential - Issue #15 - September/October 2013