BW Confidential - Issue #15 - September/October 2013 - (Page 22)

Interview Origins, Ojon & Darphin global president and gm Jane Lauder Consumer centric Jane Lauder explains how she is positioning Origins as a serious skincare player, while moving the brand into emerging markets by Oonagh Phillips J ust a few years ago even Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) executives admitted that its Origins brand had lost some of its “sharpness” and needed to be given a boost. This boost was to center on a strategy ELC is pursuing with several of its other brands: a focus on skincare and a move into emerging markets. Origins launched in 1990 as a natural skincare brand, but very quickly became associated with the bath-and-body category and, say some analysts, suffered from consumer disillusionment with the organic/natural beauty space. Now headed by Estée Lauder’s granddaughter Jane Lauder, Origins is being reshaped as a serious skincare player with a focus on performance, results and technology, rather than just natural ingredients. Lauder also emphasizes that the product line-up and in-store experience are strongly driven by consumer feedback. Another major pillar in the brand’s strategy is its move into emerging markets—mainly China. Origins launched in China in 2010 and is now sold in 40 points of sale in 14 cities in the country. China has quickly become one of the brand’s fastest-growing markets. Also part of its emerging-market strategy is Latin America. Origins made its first push there with a launch in Mexico in July. In addition to Origins, Lauder is also responsible for natural prestige haircare brand Ojon, which ELC acquired in 2007, and European brand Darphin. The challenge with Ojon is getting consumers to buy haircare in prestige retail (given that the dominant channel is mass), while for Darphin there is a desire to refocus on the brand’s skincare heritage—the brand moved out of the make-up and fragrance categories in 2009. Lauder tells BW Confidential how she intends to pull this off. 22 Origins was said to have lost some of its sharpness several years ago. What still needs to be done? Developing products based on listening to consumer insights and making sure that we deliver on consumer expectations has been one of the key focuses I have worked on over the past few years. So when we are talking about sharpness, so much of it is about listening to the customer. We often hear consumers say ‘I love Origins, but I’m changing and my needs are changing’, and we need to make sure we know what this means. We haven’t changed the philosophy or positioning of the brand, but what we need to do, as technology evolves and people change, is be able to meet consumers’ need and, as a natural brand, be as competitive as a chemical brand and provide results. Origins has refocused on becoming a serious player in skincare. Will you increase ad spend to stand out? What we are trying to do is not about advertising, but about communication. We focus on consumer insight—for example, where she is shopping and getting information about brands—and then we try to go there with the right communication. We are increasing our communication, whether it be digital, social media or outdoor. How far has the brand come in the past few years and what is the current focus? I cannot give figures, but we have seen double-digit growth over the past few years and that will continue. One of the things that is important for us is the combination of strengthening the markets where we are and expanding in markets where there is demand. In some key markets, like the US and the UK, we have been able to gain market share in skincare, and at the same time we are expanding September-October 2013 - N°15 - BW Confidential

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of BW Confidential - Issue #15 - September/October 2013

Cover
Comment
Contents
Update
Brand & retail news recap
Companies on the move
Take note Market facts, figures & trends
Best of BW Highlights from our e-publication
Launches The latest in fragrance, skincare & make-up
Interview Origins, Ojon & Darphin global president and gm Jane Lauder
Insight: Fragrance creation
Category overview
Industry views
Emerging markets
Consumer data
Role of the perfumer
Retail
Store strategy
Store concepts
Digital Beauty apps
Market watch: Chinese consumers
Overview
Shopping habits
Online sales
Radar A profile of six up-and-coming beauty brands
Travel retail: Inflight sales
Sector analysis
Channel innovations
Emerging markets Company profile: Marico
Packaging
Make-up analysis
Make-up innovations
Last word The Young Group’s Karen Young on industry trends and technology

BW Confidential - Issue #15 - September/October 2013