BW Confidential - Issue #15 - September/October 2013 - (Page 39)

Insight: Fragrance creation credit: istock Consumer data Testing makes perfect? Fragrance houses are becoming more reliant on consumer data programs, but is this good for the industry? by Alissa Demorest F ragrance houses are becoming more dependent on consumer data to target the end user and provide a sort of insurance that a scent has a chance of success. At the recent press launch of Puig-owned Paco Rabanne’s Invictus men’s fragrance, the marketing team boasted that the scent had been tested “more than 5,000 times”, implying that the fragrance was bound for success. “The market has definitely become more reliant on data, as it is critical to have a good understanding of the consumer. We are investing heavily to propose solutions based on consumer understanding. Today, fragrance brands use data to make decisions; this will not change. But they are now also looking at other parameters, such as aligning the fragrance to their branding concepts, the ‘wanting’ effect and methods of marketing the product,” IFF vice president fine fragrance and beauty care worldwide Christophe de Villeplée tells BW Confidential. Other executives are less convinced of the “ Fragrance brands use data to make decisions. This will not change. But they are now also looking at other parameters ” IFF vp fine fragrance & beauty care worldwide Christophe de Villeplée September-October 2013 - N°15 - BW Confidential value of testing. “There’s a lot of money wasted on these tests; it’s more or less an insurance policy for those involved. It makes me skeptical when I compare the flop rate [of fragrances] to what is invested in consumer insight. Of course, tests are necessary in certain contexts, but in a creative environment, too many people shouldn’t be providing input. That said, some groups are not out to offer a very creative product, but to bring something to the market that is mainstream enough to sell,” opines Germany-based fragrance house Drom general manager Ferdinand Storp. In a similar vein, Santiago Sabatés, ceo of Spanish fragrance creation house Eurofragance, explains that his company chooses not to invest heavily in consumer insight. “It’s a big world out there, and there are so many different n n n 39

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of BW Confidential - Issue #15 - September/October 2013

Cover
Comment
Contents
Update
Brand & retail news recap
Companies on the move
Take note Market facts, figures & trends
Best of BW Highlights from our e-publication
Launches The latest in fragrance, skincare & make-up
Interview Origins, Ojon & Darphin global president and gm Jane Lauder
Insight: Fragrance creation
Category overview
Industry views
Emerging markets
Consumer data
Role of the perfumer
Retail
Store strategy
Store concepts
Digital Beauty apps
Market watch: Chinese consumers
Overview
Shopping habits
Online sales
Radar A profile of six up-and-coming beauty brands
Travel retail: Inflight sales
Sector analysis
Channel innovations
Emerging markets Company profile: Marico
Packaging
Make-up analysis
Make-up innovations
Last word The Young Group’s Karen Young on industry trends and technology

BW Confidential - Issue #15 - September/October 2013