CONTENTS January+February 2020 / Vol. 141 / No. 1 Desert Void, a mural by artist Chaz Bear, graces the Ace Hotel & Swim Club in Palm Springs. Page 20. FE AT U R E S 20 Palm Springs Eternal Old-school cool meets the new chic in Southern California's classic desert getaway. by c h r i s to p h e r h a l l 28 The Perfect Park Gorgeous gardens, world-class art, and a herd of bison: Find these and other treasures in San Francisco's Golden Gate Park. by p e t e r f i s h D E PA R T M E N T S 6 To Our Members What we're thankful for this year. 8 Community Winter driving tips; easy ways to make your car smarter. 10 Smart Life Your New Year to-do list: Clean up your email in-box, plan a vacation, and practice random acts of kindness. 12 On the Road KATE NAYLOR Wonders of the Mendocino coast; the West's best fireplaces; marvelous modern art in Denver; savoring Spanish wine country. 39 Smart Guide How to make your next trip to Disneyland the best one yet. 49 Spotlight Celebrating truffles in the West, Alaska's pioneering spirit, and Pier 39's famous sea lions. 52 #ViaAdventure Winter peace descends on the summer resort of Silver Lake in California's Sierra Nevada. ON THE COVER Originally built in 1902 to pump irrigation water, the Dutch Windmill in San Francisco's Golden Gate Park is now surrounded by banks of seasonal blooms. Page 28. Cover photograph by James Bueti A A A | VIA 3