Via California - January/February 2020 - 32

Dutch and Murphy
Windmills
When you reach the park's
west end, you might feel like
you've stepped into a forgotten children's book. Above
you stand two sentries, which
in their heyday pumped thousands of gallons of water
through the park. The Dutch
Windmill dates to 1902; in
spring, tulips bloom at its base.
Nearby, the Murphy Windmill
(pictured) shines with a 64-ton
copper dome, shipped here
from the Netherlands.

Bison Paddock

Sprawling and angular, with a looming periscope tower, the de Young looks a little like
a spacecraft just in from Planet Art. The 21st-century museum is sheathed in perforated copper that's a rich brown today but will eventually oxidize, giving the whole
building a blue-green patina that echoes the surrounding foliage. It's an apt metaphor
for the evolving institution, which traces its roots to the 1890s. The de Young is especially strong in American art, counting works such as Albert Bierstadt's California
Spring among its holdings, but Africa and Oceania are well represented too. Shortterm exhibits explore everything from contemporary tattoos to African American
art during the civil rights era. Once you're ready for a break, ride the elevator up
that futuristic tower to the observation deck. The views stretch all the way from the
residential Richmond District to the skyscrapers of downtown.

ARIZMENDI BAKERY

Picnic
supplies
32

Just two blocks south
of the park, this co-op
serves fresh-baked
artisan pizzas along
with the best scones
in the world. The corncherry is legendary.

V I A | J A N UA RY+ FE B R UA RY 2 0 2 0

HOOK FISH CO. This

small, counter-service
joint near the west
end of the park traffics
in poke and fish tacos.
Don't miss the sublime
ceviche.

Locals and travelers alike gape
outside the Bison Paddock.
Here, a herd of regal ruminants
graze in their own little prairie,
sometimes moving majestically toward passersby before
slowly sidling off again. John
McLaren imported the first
pair in 1891, when the species
seemed doomed to extinction.
Now, with bison thriving
nationwide, this small herd
serves as a welcome reminder
that environmental crises can
have happy endings.

TARTINE INNER

SUNSET The new

Ninth Avenue outpost
of the beloved bakery
turns out breads,
salads, and soups.
Arrive early to score
a morning bun.

WHOLE FOODS

MARKET The upscale
grocery store's
Stanyan Street branch,
near the park, carries
anything you might
need for a picnic.

BOTTOM RIGHT: TERRY SMITH IMAGES / ALAMY

de young museum

Via California - January/February 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Via California - January/February 2020