Via California - March/April 2020 - 39

RIGHT: SHELDON CHANG

Another standout is Larkin House, located two blocks
west of Cooper-Molera, at Jefferson Street and Calle
Principal. Built in 1835 by pioneer Thomas Larkin, the
house rarely opens to the public, but its exterior design-
two stories, wraparound porches, hip roof-offers a textbook example of Monterey colonial architecture that
Trottier says set the style for much of the town.
Around the corner, Colton Hall stands as an exception,
a grand public building constructed of local white shale in
the federal style. This is where the State of California got its
start. In 1849, delegates gathered here to write the constitution that helped secure statehood the following year. The
museum upstairs commemorates the occasion by displaying a copy of the momentous document and desks messy
with papers and quill pens.
Ready for a beverage or a quick bite? Alvarado Street
has you covered. Not long ago, Monterey's main drag came
across as sleepy, maybe even a little forlorn, but the current vibe is busy and happy. The three blocks between Pearl
Street and Del Monte Avenue hold an array of homespun
and chic shops, anchored by the Golden State Theatre, a
1920s movie palace that today-100 years later-hosts live
entertainment. Alvarado Street Brewery pleases craft beer
enthusiasts with its Monterey lager, especially when paired
with the kitchen's spicy jerk chicken sandwich. Across the
street, Revival Ice Cream scoops locally sourced flavors
such as the knockout Bee's Knees, a creamy organic custard
laden with crunchy honeycomb candy.
Alvarado Street ends at Custom House Plaza, where

above: A trolley-style city shuttle. opposite, clockwise from left:
The dog-friendly beer garden at Alvarado Street Brewery; an old bronze
anchor at the Custom House; enjoying baked goods from Alta Bakery and
Café; the Spear Warehouse (right) at the Cooper-Molera Adobe; Dalí's
Triumphant Elephant sculpture and 12 Apostles series.

you'll encounter two more notable adobes turned into engaging museums. Pacific House, built in 1847, dedicates its second floor to the Monterey Museum of the American Indian.
Displays focus on the basketry, weaving, and pottery of the
Hupa, Pomo, and other Northern California peoples. The
Custom House, built in the 1820s, remains the oldest government building in California. Its exhibits detail the cattle
and hide trade that enriched Monterey during Mexican
rule. Across the plaza, you can take in the Monterey History
and Art Association's collection of sculptures, lithographs,
and other creations by Salvador Dalí. Having fled Spain
during its civil war, the mustachioed surrealist lived and
worked on the Monterey Peninsula in the 1940s.
Behind Pacific House, at Olivier and Scott Streets, the
Joseph Boston Store takes you back to a short-lived commercial enterprise. Boston opened the store in 1850 but
gave it up just 12 years later, succumbing to the challenges of
frontier Monterey. His loss. Now operated by the Historic
Garden League of Monterey, the store packs nicely curated
gift items, many of them with an 1850s theme, as well as
garden books and regionally produced foods, including the
store's own chardonnay-artichoke salsa and jams from the
popular Happy Girl Kitchen.
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Via California - March/April 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Via California - March/April 2020

Contents
Via California - March/April 2020 - Cover1
Via California - March/April 2020 - Cover2
Via California - March/April 2020 - 1
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Via California - March/April 2020 - Contents
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Via California - March/April 2020 - Cover3
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Via California - March/April 2020 - 1A
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