Via California - March/April 2020 - 41

TOP LEFT AND CENTER: COURTESY MONTEREY BAY AQUARIUM (2)

by translucent, hallucinatory jellyfish. Or pet a stingray. Does
terra firma even exist? Not while
you're here.
To get out on that water
you've been admiring, head to
Old Fisherman's Wharf by way
of Custom House Plaza. (A free
trolley stops outside the aquarium every 10 to 15 minutes on
weekends from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.)
Migrating species pass through
Monterey Bay year-round: Gray
whales surface from January
to March, followed by orcas,
humpbacks, and blues from
April to December. Monterey Bay Whale Watch runs expert
tours that last three to 12 hours. Prefer to paddle a few boat
lengths from cormorants, brown pelicans, and harbor seals?
Sign up for a Monterey Bay Kayaks excursion.
The waterfront also won't let you down when it comes to
refreshment. Strolling the pier at Old Fisherman's Wharf,
Big Little Lies fans may spy Paluca Trattoria and wonder,
"Isn't that Blue Blues Cafe?" It is, sort of. The show's producers liked the atmosphere here so much they re-created
it on a Hollywood soundstage. You don't need to be a Lies
follower to snack on the trattoria's bruschetta-traditional,
SMART TIP: Some
2 million people visit
the Monterey Bay
Aquarium each year.
To beat the crowds,
arrive early and get
a hand stamp, which
allows you to leave
during the crush
and return in late
afternoon when it's
quieter. Or sign up
for one of the smallgroup tours, such as
Feed the Fish and
Behind-the-Scenes.

above, clockwise from top left: The Monterey Bay Aquarium's Great
Tide Pool; a leopard shark swims through anchovies in the Kelp Forest
exhibit; Old Fisherman's Wharf; a Monterey Bay Kayaks excursion; Cannery
Row Antique Mall. opposite page, clockwise from top left: Adding
yarrow tincture to a Pearlescent cocktail at Pearl Hour; the Monterey Bay
Coastal Recreation Trail near Coast Guard Pier; the Sea Wolf II cruising by
orcas on a Monterey Bay Whale Watch tour.

wild prawn, or smoked salmon-and savor unobstructed
views of the harbor. Nearby, next to the Municipal Wharf,
Dust Bowl Brewing Co. revives a 1915 railroad depot. Grab a
Hops of Wrath, its flagship IPA, to salute Steinbeck.
Back on Canner y Row, newcomer Pearl Hour on
Lighthouse Avenue seduces craft cocktail lovers with concoctions such as the smoky yet floral Pearlescent (mescal,
gin, dry vermouth, bergamot liqueur, and yarrow tincture). The Fish Hopper pulls in crowds with creamy clam
chowder based on a 70-year-old family recipe and crispy
panko-coated Pacific sand dabs. A Taste of Monterey Wine
Market and Bistro lets you sip wines from Hahn, Scheid,
and more than 80 other county vintners-and pair them
with flatbread pizzas. Raise your chardonnay or pinot noir,
gaze out at the water, and toast your exuberantly perfect
Monterey days. ‚óŹ
peter fish also writes for the San Francisco Chronicle,
Sunset, and Houzz.com.
A A A | VIA

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Via California - March/April 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Via California - March/April 2020

Contents
Via California - March/April 2020 - Cover1
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Via California - March/April 2020 - 1
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