Clean Run - February 2018 - 28

Using a Target for

Jump Training

By Susan Salo, photos by author
As I've previously discussed many times,
a target aids in teaching the dog to be
task-oriented, to find the line and to
drive the line to the target. All too many
handlers (in my opinion) use the hand
as a lure to present the line, obstacle, or
work to the dog. Do we think the dogs
are incapable of finding it? Do we feel
they will not honor the line unless we
present it this way? If so, why would
anyone want that much doubt from
the dog? How many of us are actually
quick enough to always be far enough
ahead of our fast dogs to point to the
line? I have always felt that if I am moving with intent towards an obstacle, my
dog should drive the line and assume he
should take the obstacle if nothing about
my behavior or position says no. The
reward foundation of the target, which
I've used since puppyhood, has helped
create this behavior from my dog.

various targets to elicit the response you
require in a particularly distracting environment or to proof a behavior if the target is of overwhelming value to the dog
and causes him to omit the work and run
straight to the target. It is our job to know
which target to use when.

Since targets are such an important part
of jumping grid work, I'd like to discuss
some vital points regarding their use.
Improper use of targets can desensitize
our dogs to our motion.

If you train much more than you trial
and have been doing a lot of jump grid
work using your target, you may find
the dog is now becoming too obstacle
focused. Do not remove the target from
your grid work; instead carry a second
target with you so you can break off a
sequence and bring the dog back to your
side to reward and play. The handler is
still the biggest reinforcement zone for

Value and Visibility
The target must be of high value to the
dog at all times. This may mean you need
28

It is essential the target be highly visible
to the dog from a distance; therefore,
you would not choose a black rubber
udder tug to use indoor on black matting. You would need something the
dog could easily see. If you use food
as your target, it needs to be placed on
something bright and easy to see from a
distance-never place food on the working surface as it causes problems for the
next dog who may become distracted by
the scent of food on the ground.

The Balancing Act

the dog to chase and come into regardless of your method of handling.
I generally see the opposite effect; handlers have trialed many weekends, taken
class or a seminar or two, and now you
have the opposite problem: the dog is
now "sticky" and too handler-focused
even on simple lines, offering head
checks frequently to be affirmed they
are performing the correct behavior.
Going back and doing some jump work
will rebalance the scale, keeping the dog
equally obstacle- and handler-focused.
This balancing act is constantly in play,
too much of either does not help or
serve the dog. We want speed from our
dogs and they slow down when they
have questions. The target is essential to
create the obstacle orientation and teach
the dog to drive ahead while comfortably feeling the handler moving and
supporting the same path.
Remember that placement of the target
is information to the dog! Placement of
the target should represent the line we
want the dog to take. Don't be lazy with
this, if you throw the target and it does
not end up where it needed to be, then
walk out and fix it. Always be a mindful trainer and be totally present during
your short sessions
Clean Run | February 18

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Clean Run - February 2018