Clean Run - February 2020 - 48

The first step is to teach
my young dog the
end position I
expect on the
teeter, the play
bow. I teach
that as a
stationary
position
using a
clicker.
Since my
dogs are
so close to
the ground,
I often train
them on a small
step stool. Once
they are getting into
the position fairly easily,
I add my verbal cue. I use
"Splat," but it can be any word you
want, such as touch, target, etc.
Next, I introduce a small target for
the dog to place both front paws
on. The rubbery shelf liner material works well for targets because
I can find it in many colors, I can
cut it to the size I want, and it is not
expensive. It can also be securely
attached to various types of flooring
and teeter planks with a small piece
of duct tape. I start with a piece cut
into a 6 in. by 1 in. rectangle. Initially, I clicker train the dogs to touch
it with both front paws. As they progress, I expect them to put their front
paws on the target and then get
into their play bow position. I reward
them for getting on the target and
into "splat" position quickly.
I can place several of these targets
on the floor in my training area
(usually my living room or basement) and make a fun game for
the dogs. I reward them for quickly
getting into position and remaining
there until verbally released and
then going to the next target with
speed and enthusiasm.

The next step is to put the paw target at the end of a
short, low plank or travel board. Initially, the plank
is lying flat on the floor, then I gradually change
the angle and vary the degree of tip it has.
Once the dog understands the end behavior
on the short plank, I start using the actual
teeter plank. At first, the plank is supported at both ends and does not move
much. I backchain my dogs into the end
position by picking them up and placing
them on the plank about 3 or 4 ft. from
the end. Once they are driving into the
"splat" position quickly from a few away
from the target, I increase the distance
they have to run to get to the target.
The next step is to add motion to the plank.
I like to have the dog drive up the plank with
speed and stay in the target position at the end.
So, at this stage, I put a chair or jump wing under
the target end of the plank. This keeps the target end
high while still allowing it to drop 12-18 in. from its highest point. I physically remove my dog from the end of the plank to
do the next rep. Gradually, I allow the plank to drop more by adjusting the
height of the object under it until there is nothing propping it up, and the end
of the plank is on the ground. I continue to remove the dog from the plank
physically until this point. I want the dog to remain at the end of the teeter in
position, and I don't want to give them a chance to practice leaping off when
the plank isn't completely on the ground. Only when the plank is no longer
being supported and touches the ground after tipping will I verbally release
them from their end position.
Since teeters can vary in weight and thus the speed at which they descend
to the ground, I sometimes use my hand to make my plank descend more
slowly, or I use a weight attached under the upside of the teeter with Velcro.
If at any time the dog is slowing down while going to the end of the plank I
either shorten the distance they have to travel by backchaining and/or bait
the target with a yummy piece of cheese or some other soft goodie that I can
smoosh into the end of the plank. Since my Papillons are all very food motivated, they usually run fast to get the food and can then focus on licking up
the food reward while the plank is moving.
Finally, while working through each stage of the teeter training described
above, I practice varying my body position, handling speed, and distance
from the dog. I also add distractions such as toys and other dogs. As the
dog's confidence grows, the proofing of the end behavior can be tested using more difficult distractions and motion. Ideally, I want the dog to remain
in "splat" position at the end of the teeter no matter what is happening in the
environment until I give my verbal release cue.
For small agility dogs, the teeter presents several challenges, but I believe
these troubleshooting techniques can enhance any dog's teeter performance.
Good luck and happy teeter training! D

Linda Womer is a veterinarian and is also certified in animal chiropractic. She got involved with agility after watching a demo at a local park. She and her Papillons
have represented the USA in multiple world championship events. 

48

Clean Run | February 20
Clean Run - February 2020

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