Clean Run Magazine - May 2008 - 51

Impulse Control Focus on By Deborah Jones, PhD In the In FOCUS training program Judy Keller and I have a number of impulsecontrol exercises that we begin very early in training. They should be taught in order, because the challenges build one on the other, and they can be started with very young puppies. Please note that none of these behaviors involves a verbal cue or command. We let our dogs discover what works and give them an opportunity to show controlled behavior. If we must always cue controlled behavior, then it is externally imposed, not self-imposed. Impulse control is a very popular topic in agility training these days. It is a commonly held belief that dogs need to learn to control their impulses. But what, exactly, are we talking about? Dictionary.com provides many definitions for the term “impulse.” Some of these include: “an impelling action or force, driving onward to induce motion; sudden, involuntary inclination prompting to action; a motivating force or tendency; a sudden desire to do something, without thinking about the consequences.” These definitions suggest that an impulse happens suddenly, does not involve thought or consideration, and compels some sort of response. Our goal in teaching impulse control is to insert some sort of self-restraint between the motivation to act and the action itself. In humans, Sigmund Freud talks about the “id, a hypothetical personality structure that ” drives us to act on our basic needs and desires. He talks about people who have “strong ids. Those people act on impulse without consideration of the consequences. ” They do what is most reinforcing now. They are unable to delay gratification or control their behaviors. Other people have help with their ids in the form of strong egos (another hypothetical personality structure). The ego finds ways to satisfy the id, while at the same time considering consequences and keeping people from harming themselves. You can tell if people have stronger ids or egos by their behavior. Do they tend to act impulsively or are they thoughtful and considerate in their actions? How does this discussion of ids and egos apply to our dogs? We definitely see innate individual differences in impulse control in dogs. It seems as if some dogs have no filter between the stimulus (the motivating or impelling force) and the response. They act on id impulses without conscious thought. They see a cookie, they grab the cookie. They see another dog, they race over to visit, and so on. This becomes a problem when we get to agility training and we want greater control of the dog’s behavior in the face of temptations. We want to avoid the “see tunnel, take tunnel” syndrome. How can we teach our dogs to control their impulses? In Freud’s lingo, we need to help them develop egos. We need to insert a moment of conscious thought between the stimulus and the response. We also need to make it reinforcing for the dog to control his impulses. Simply preventing unwanted responses is not enough. That is external control, not self-control. We really want our dogs to learn that controlling themselves is what pays off. However, we may need to use some form of external control, such as leashes or crates, in the initial stages of training. The Premack Principle addresses this concept perfectly. It states that less desired behavior can be reinforced by more desired behavior. To be able to do what you want, you first need to do something you don’t really want to do. So, if your dog wants to come out of his crate, he needs to sit and wait first. It’s really a simple principle, but it can be very powerful in training. Once your dog learns that doing a less preferred behavior pays off by getting him what he wants, he will be more than happy to do it. May 08 | Clean Run Slooooow Treats: Have a number of small treats and your clicker.Your target behavior is for your dog to hold still as you slowly move the treat toward him. If he does, click and deliver the treat. If he moves toward the treat, use a non-reward marker (NRM) such as “Whoops, and ” slowly move the treat away. Your dog needs to learn that inhibiting his desire to jump up and grab the cookie leads to your giving him the cookie. Food Bowl Control: Let your dog watch you prepare his dinner, but only put a small amount of food into the bowl. When your dog is still (not jumping or moving toward you) begin to slowly lower the bowl to the ground. If your dog moves toward the bowl, use your NRM and raise the food bowl. As soon as your dog is still, begin lowering the bowl again. Click or give a verbal release cue to allow your dog to have the food. Then pick up the bowl, add a bit more food, and start again. I highly suggest you begin this exercise on leash. Keep your leash short and loose throughout the exercise. Show your dog a cookie and begin lowering it to the ground about 2' in front of him. If he moves toward it use your NRM and either cover the treat with your hand or pick it up. When he is still again, place the treat on the ground or uncover it. It is vital that your dog does not beat you to the treat. While your dog is exhibiting control by holding still, click and allow him to take the treat. 51 Cookies on the Floor:

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Clean Run Magazine - May 2008

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Clean Run Magazine - May 2008