Clean Run - June 2013 - 50

Spacing
T ese spaces listed below are quite good for most dogs within
each body-type category. But they are intended as guidelines;
you may need to add a bit of space or take away a bit for your
dog. You are looking for the dog to step in, rock back, and jump
out in one smooth eff ort without any additional footfalls.
Size of Dog
Larger body type
BC or Aussie
body type
Sheltie body type
Small JRT
body type
Tiny Papillon
body type
The Target
With gridwork we always use a visible target on the ground to
show the dog the path we want him to take. T e target should
be placed on the ground on the landing side of the jump, far
enough away that the dog can land and get all four feet on the
ground. So as not to rehearse behaviors that won’t be appreciated
later, the handler should stand one step ahead of the target
and one step laterally off the target to allow the dog to get to the
target without passing the plane of the handler’s body. T e handler
is still the main reinforcement zone for the dog. T e target
must be of high value to the dog so that he wants to drive forward
to it. If food is used, place the food on a visible target such
as a fl oppy Frisbee. Food should not be off ered from the handler’s
hands because that will take the dog’s focal point up too
high; the dog’s head position needs to be down and in a natural
position. T e target becomes an important part of teaching the
dog to look ahead and toward his jump rather than at the handler.
T e handler needs to also support the target information.
Spacing from Stride
Regulator to Jump
6'
5' to 5 1/2'
4'
3'
2' to 2 1/2'
Height of
Stride Regulator
4"
4"
4"
4"
4"
Height of
Jump
8" to full height
8" to full height
8" to full height
8" to full height
8" to full height
Setting Up the Dog
It is important the dog be set up in front of the stride regulator
at a distance that is approximately one half the distance off ered
between the stride regulator and the jump. So if your spacing is
4', for example, the dog should start 2' from the stride regulator.
We want to allow the dog to step into the space and be placed
at a good takeoff place. If the dog is set up on top of the stride
regulator, his fi rst step will drive him too deep to a takeoff spot
that is too far from the jump, and the dog may well perceive the
exercise as simply one big eff ort. Many of us are spacially challenged
and have trouble paying attention to exactly where we
set up the dog, but it really does matter so try to be consistent.
Place the dog in a sit-, stand-, or down-stay. If he’s sitting, make
sure the dog’s weight is on his haunches. If the dog starts an exercise
in a crouching or “vulture” position, then his weight is on
his front and the angle of his shoulders is closed. T is is not desirable
and can cause knocked bars. An easy way to get a dog to sit
upright (which puts his weight on his haunches and opens up the
angle of his shoulders) is to ask for a high hand touch aſt er he sits.
T e dog should be looking forward at the jump and target before
you release him.
What If the Dog Gets It Wrong?
Gridwork is not about right or wrong, it is about knowledge
and whether the dog understands his job. T ere are no consequences
for errors. If the dog fails, he doesn’t understand; take
the dog back a step to where he was successful before moving
forward again.
How Much to Practice?
Gridwork should be done in short sessions and it should be fun
for the dog so be sure to intersperse plenty of play. T e goal is not
to drill this one exercise until you perfect it. Most dogs will need
regular set point “maintenance” work throughout their career.
You can do 3 to 5 successful set point repetitions per training
session, but they don’t need to be done consecutively; you can
mix up set point repetitions with other gridwork exercises to
keep the dog fresh and interested.
Proofi ng
When using food
as a target, place
it on or in a very
visible object.
• Use diff erent types of hurdles for the jump in the exercise:
winged jumps, nonwinged jumps, doubles, triples, and the tire.
• Remember to change sides frequently so that you work the
dog on your leſt and right; your dog should be comfortable
on either side of you.
50
Clean Run |
June 13
© CLEAN RUN

Clean Run - June 2013

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Clean Run - June 2013

Clean Run - June 2013
Contents
Editorializing: Inside the Ring, Outside the Ring
Tip of the Month
Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Agility…
Backyard Dogs
Bucking the System: A Look at “Ad-Libbing” Handling Systems
Awesome Paws Drills
Agility—Hobby or Sport?
Class Challenges for Rising Stars: Wrap It Up
Class Challenges for Rising Stars: Wrap It Up
The Judge’s Debriefing
Ultimate Instructors: What Makes a Really Good Instructor?
Power Paws Skills: Training the Serpentine
The 10-Minute Trainer
Training with the Stars: Nancy Gyes
Knowledge Equals Speed! Does Your Dog Turn Wide?
Sacrotuberous Ligament Tension
Out Spot Out! Teaching Independent Obstacle Performance, Part 3
Exercise and Your Puppy
Foundation Jumping, Part 2
Clean Run - June 2013 - Clean Run - June 2013
Clean Run - June 2013 - 2
Clean Run - June 2013 - Contents
Clean Run - June 2013 - 4
Clean Run - June 2013 - Editorializing: Inside the Ring, Outside the Ring
Clean Run - June 2013 - Tip of the Month
Clean Run - June 2013 - Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Agility…
Clean Run - June 2013 - Backyard Dogs
Clean Run - June 2013 - 9
Clean Run - June 2013 - Bucking the System: A Look at “Ad-Libbing” Handling Systems
Clean Run - June 2013 - 11
Clean Run - June 2013 - 12
Clean Run - June 2013 - Awesome Paws Drills
Clean Run - June 2013 - 14
Clean Run - June 2013 - 15
Clean Run - June 2013 - 16
Clean Run - June 2013 - Agility—Hobby or Sport?
Clean Run - June 2013 - 18
Clean Run - June 2013 - Class Challenges for Rising Stars: Wrap It Up
Clean Run - June 2013 - 20
Clean Run - June 2013 - 21
Clean Run - June 2013 - 22
Clean Run - June 2013 - 23
Clean Run - June 2013 - The Judge’s Debriefing
Clean Run - June 2013 - 25
Clean Run - June 2013 - Ultimate Instructors: What Makes a Really Good Instructor?
Clean Run - June 2013 - 27
Clean Run - June 2013 - 28
Clean Run - June 2013 - Power Paws Skills: Training the Serpentine
Clean Run - June 2013 - 30
Clean Run - June 2013 - 31
Clean Run - June 2013 - 32
Clean Run - June 2013 - 33
Clean Run - June 2013 - 34
Clean Run - June 2013 - 35
Clean Run - June 2013 - The 10-Minute Trainer
Clean Run - June 2013 - 37
Clean Run - June 2013 - 38
Clean Run - June 2013 - 39
Clean Run - June 2013 - 40
Clean Run - June 2013 - Training with the Stars: Nancy Gyes
Clean Run - June 2013 - 42
Clean Run - June 2013 - 43
Clean Run - June 2013 - 44
Clean Run - June 2013 - Exercise and Your Puppy
Clean Run - June 2013 - 46
Clean Run - June 2013 - 47
Clean Run - June 2013 - Foundation Jumping, Part 2
Clean Run - June 2013 - 49
Clean Run - June 2013 - 50
Clean Run - June 2013 - 51
Clean Run - June 2013 - 52
Clean Run - June 2013 - Knowledge Equals Speed! Does Your Dog Turn Wide?
Clean Run - June 2013 - 54
Clean Run - June 2013 - 55
Clean Run - June 2013 - 56
Clean Run - June 2013 - 57
Clean Run - June 2013 - Sacrotuberous Ligament Tension
Clean Run - June 2013 - 59
Clean Run - June 2013 - 60
Clean Run - June 2013 - 61
Clean Run - June 2013 - 62
Clean Run - June 2013 - Out Spot Out! Teaching Independent Obstacle Performance, Part 3
Clean Run - June 2013 - 64
Clean Run - June 2013 - 65
Clean Run - June 2013 - 66
Clean Run - June 2013 - 67
Clean Run - June 2013 - 68
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