Clean Run - June 2017 - 11

Hoop, box, hoop sequence

* Don't forget to always release
your dog with a verbal cue.
* Also vary your position in relation
to your dog.
* During this stage vary between
going to your dog and treating
him, and releasing him to come
back to you for his treat. But,
when you go the box to treat him,
always go back to your original
position before you release him.
Adding Hoops
Now we will add hoops, one before
the box and one after. Start by just
having them 10 feet from the box. As
your dog gets comfortable, increase
the distance. We want to start creating speed into and out of the box as
well as changing up your speed.
This step really starts helping the
dog understand to stay straight in
the box. You can use a target after
the second hoop if you wish.

Spot box on the dogwalk.

Spot box on the A-frame. Notice that
the top bar has been removed.

* Start close to your dog then start
adding distance and varying your
position.

Note: I do all of these steps with the
A-frame sized box first and then I
will go back and do them with the
dogwalk-sized box. The steps go
much quicker the second time as the
dog already understands what is being asked, they just have to be more
aware of where all four feet are.

* Watch for your dog to collect going into the box using his rear
end. We don't want the dog to
slam into the box on his front
end. If this is happening, you
need to go back and work rearend awareness more.
* Watch for your dog to really drive
out of the box. Use a target to
help with this if necessary.
Multiple Boxes
If you have multiple boxes or a friend
who has a box or two, set up a Hoopers type course with multiple boxes.
This will get your dog to understand
that during a course you will be asking for a "spot" and they will need to
collect and stop and then drive out
again. This really helps your dog
learn to think while in motion, to collect when needed, and drive out from
a stop. It also helps with impulse
control while you are in motion.

Contacts
Once I have gone through the previous stages of training, I add my boxes to the contacts. For the A-frame,
I remove the top piece on the box.
I have found that dogs catch toes if
you leave the top bar on.
Fading the Box?
I have been asked if you need to
"fade" the box? I have not found that
much fading is necessary as there is
a "box" on every contact out there.
Train it and trust it!
Thank you and I hope you enjoy
your journey! D

My name is Jeannie Biggers and I live in beautiful Bozeman, Montana. I started agility in 2005 with my first Australian Shepherd. On most weekends you can find me
judging or competing at agility or herding trials, or working my Aussies and Border Collies for fun. I have placed in the top three at the NADAC Championships six times
I have put 28 Trial Championships on dogs and I also have the #19 MODSQUAD dog. I own and operate GotDog? LLC. We host four agility trials a year as well as offer
agility classes, seminars, and private lessons. I can be contacted at jeannie@gotdogllc.com or http://gotdogllc.com.

Tuff n Up
Your Dog's Feet

Day 1

Protect your
dog's feet or
heal injured
pads quickly

Day 2

June 17 | Clean Run

http://www.gotdogllc.com http://www.gameonagility.com

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Clean Run - June 2017