Clean Run - June 2020 - 56

between the two. I try to make the
distinction because when I train, I
like to be clear in my head what I
am working on: one- and two-jump
training games, three- and fourjump configurations, combinations
of configurations, or sequence and
course work (putting it all together).

Basic Verbal and Physical
Cues
One Jump, Two Jump is not just a
handling program. It also teaches
you how to teach your dog to respond correctly to your cues. The
cues in the list below are covered
in that program, and they are
needed for handling configurations
smoothly. These basic cues may
be used as verbal cues only, physical cues only, or combined when
doing so is an advantage.
* Acceleration cues (Go On!
* Declaration cues (physical lack
of motion and verbal)
* Leave me cues (distance work)
* Stick to me cues (close work)
* Seven basic turn cues: lack of
motion, pull, front cross, rear
cross, push (backside), lateral
motion, verbal left and right (not
all teams need verbal left and
right cues)
If you do not have these cues
trained, I recommend revisiting
them individually. If I am really paying attention to my performances,
I can tell which of these cues has
gotten a bit weak and needs some
individual attention-it might be a
one-time tune-up, or the cue might
become part of my on-going maintenance program.

Additional Cues
As you would expect, my handling
program has expanded since I
created One Jump, Two Jump, but
it remains the staple I still teach.
It's not that I have changed much
at all; it is more that I have added

56

to it. I now use verbal cues for all of the basic cues above, as well as
physical cues, and have added a few more turn cues.
I still rely on the basic cues for my handling choices because that is what
is easiest for my dog, especially on American-style courses. You will be
able to implement the turn cues you love the most into the configurations.
I will show you my most common handling options, but you will be able
to get fluent within the handling system you embrace. All turn cues are
some variation of the basic cues-did you know that? Look for it, and you
will see it. We should always be building on what we have.

Configuration #1: Straight Lines
"Straight lines! You gotta be kidding me," you say, "I'm into training turn
cues!"
"Yup," I say, "many a tricky course has been bungled by teams that do not
have the 'go straight' cue taught well."
Teaching your dog to drive straight toward you isn't hard; in fact, every
time your dog does a nice fast recall, he is perfecting that. This is why
when you want a dog to travel straight but not directly toward you, he
struggles. The dog is so used to coming directly to you or turning toward
you (which is why turning away from you takes more training than turning
toward you does).
Going fast and straight is a skill that has to be taught and maintained like
anything else you want and need your dog to know.
What My Dog Can Count On
When I cue my dog to go straight, he needs to be able to count on the
following:
* If I cue you to go straight, I need you to do so until you get a turn cue.
* When I cue you to go straight, I will have already set the correct line
one obstacle before the straight line starts.
* You do not have to look at me once you are cued to go straight.
* When it is time to turn, you will be given a cue that you know, and it will
be well-timed.
* I will remain calm. I will not get hysterical, tempting you to check in with
me when I'm falling behind.
I teach my dogs to understand "drive straight" under the following five
conditions.
Toward Me (Direct)
This is the easiest; the obstacles are directly in front of the dog, and I
am ahead. I may be stopped (like a lead-out) or moving (if I am ahead
on course).
I reward my dog with food or toys from my hand; I don't throw the
reward because I don't want my dog to pass me. I maintain speed by
rewarding the fastest responses (especially off the start line) for the
dog's entire career.

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Clean Run - June 2020

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