Clean Run - July 2018 - 7

MY

S K I L L S TO M A S T E R
By Mary Watcher, photos by Maja Young

I have competed successfully in AKC agility with my Golden Retrievers and Yellow
Labs. I haven't trialed much during the
past two years, but I am ready to start
competing regularly again. In preparing
my dogs, I spent time evaluating the
basics I was taught many years ago and
considering whether a handler could still
have qualifying runs on today's courses if
they had mastered these skills.
My answer is yes. Aside from some
equipment changes, I have observed
only one new required skill, which is
teaching the dog to take the backside
of a jump.
With the technology we have today,
there are many options available to
teach you how to train and handle your
agility dog, but whichever method you
use, I think the following 10 skills will
always be needed.

1. Start-Line Routine
Dogs thrive on consistency and routine, so having a start-line routine can
help any dog. If your dog is fearful, the
routine brings a sense of calm as the
dog falls into his known pattern. For the
overly excited dog, doing some focus
exercises and obedience "doodles" can
help your dog to focus on you, and
not the agility ring. You can begin your
start-line routine whenever you want.
It could start when your dog exits the
crate, while you are waiting to enter the
ring, or at the start line.
July 18 | Clean Run

When a course starts with a jump or
tire, it is helpful to start your dog at approximately the same distance from the
first obstacle each run. You will have
to experiment with different distances
until you find the one that allows your
dog to gather some speed before he
breaks the timer eyes, have the correct
footwork and be able to keep bars up.
Think of a person jumping hurdles.
They have developed the fastest and
most efficient jumping routine for their
body. They know precisely how many
strides to take between jumps. This
learned skill becomes second nature to
them, an automatic response that kicks
in at the start line.
I try to keep body and verbal cues as
black and white as possible for the dog.
My goal is that someone watching from
a distance can tell the exact moment
I release my dog. If my routine meets
that criterion, then it is black and white
to the dog. He is to either stay in a sit or
move forward when I release him. Handlers who repeatedly say "Stay, stay,
stay," make it harder for the dog to remain in the stay position. Since it is not
clear to the dog after which "stay" he
will be released, he is wound-up trying
to anticipate when he will be released.
If you say "stay" once, walk out to position yourself, and then give your body
and verbal release cue, your dog knows
exactly when the release will occur.

Handlers often give up distance gained
from a lead-out. They tend to watch
their dog to see if the sequence is being
done correctly. Once you know your
dog is committed, you need to immediately move toward the next obstacle.

2. End-of-Run Routine
A routine at the end of your run can be
beneficial. Be sure to continue to run
until your dog has completed the last
obstacle (which usually is a jump). If you
slow down before a jump, the chance
that your dog will drop a bar increases.
If your dog senses you have slowed
down or stopped, he may turn toward
you rather than continuing forward.
This turn can cause the dog's rear feet
to hit the jump bar and displace it.
Incorporate your dog coming back to
you to be leashed into your routine.
Some dogs will look for the exit and run
out to get their treats or toy during their
run or immediately upon finishing. Having the treats or toy in a container will
prevent your dog from self-rewarding.
Your end-of-run routine doesn't end
until you are at your predetermined
place of reward. Dogs consider your
attention a valuable reward in addition
to treats and toys. If friends want to talk
to you when you leave the ring, just
say you will speak to them a little later.
You and your dog are a team, and your
teammate is top priority.
7
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Clean Run - July 2018
