Why would you do a threadle to rear when you could do a full front or blind cross instead? One reason is that you are not always in position for a front or blind cross. These drills were purposely designed to increase the likelihood of you being slightly behind your dog at the threadle. There is a possibility though, depending on the relative speed of you and your dog in many of the sequences, that you could get ahead and front or blind cross between the jumps or tunnel to eliminate the threadle to a rear. Experiment and see if the front cross will work to replace the threadle to rear. See Figure 4 for positioning on the front cross. If your dog is not fond of you rear crossing or does not yet have the threadle skill or your relative speed is greater than your dog's speed, it is likely that you don't want to do too many of these handling exercises in a row. Perfect the threadle to rear skill on a few exercises and then use the setup for some other fun drills. See the last design in this article for some other ideas on using this fun setup for lots more sequencing than the threadle to rear skill. D 4 4 3 2 1 Full front cross between #2 and #3. MOVE-iT ! ® Tired of dragging your A-frame to move it while simultaneously ruining your turf? Can't move it by yourself? The Move It! is a revolutionary device that allows one person to move an A-frame without any lifting. Roll one home TODAY! See the full line of NoseTouch.com innovative products: www.nosetouch.com 888-711-PETS (7387) Also available at: www.cleanrun.com * 800-311-6503 12 Clean Run | July 19http://www.NoseTouch.com http://www.nosetouch.com http://www.cleanrun.com