Clean Run Magazine - August 2009 - 76

In Figure 9b you can see the effect on the dog’s line if you don’t use marker P and apply the jigsaw rule. It is also difficult to follow Jenny’s first rule if you miss that marker. Not using Jenny’s first rule and allowing the dog to come in with the wrong distance to the first turn because the majority of cues tell him to go ahead can lead to wide turns. 3 2 4 1 5 In the sequences in Figures 10a and 10b we’ll compare how I distinguish between tight (Figure 10a) and straight (Figure 10b) rear crosses. In the first case, I make sure to follow the dog’s line to marker P1. when I turn toward jump #4 and marker P2, I make sure to keep my driving shoulder toward the jump; my leading hand is pointing toward the same jump but is kept close to my side. By marker P2, rather close to the jump, I connect with my dog and distinctly change my own direction toward the next obstacle. But I make sure to apply the landing rule so the dog doesn’t turn before the obstacle, causing a refusal. The landing rule is there to balance the distinct cue to turn that I give by abruptly changing my direction. when my dog lands, I can also turn my upper body and shoulders toward the tunnel. when you connect with your dog before a rear cross, be sure to apply the landing rule to keep your dog attentive to your change of direction. keep your leading hand close to your body and your driving shoulder somewhat angled away from your dog. Say your dog’s name just before your planned change of side so your dog glances at you and clearly sees that you’re moving to the side. Remember: you should always follow the line when you connect with your dog. You shouldn’t have to move away from your dog to make him respond! I often add extra training on this connection separately to keep my dog responsive. The dog shouldn’t begin the change of side until your cue for it, when you begin to move toward the next jump. If your dog’s path is to jump B after #4 instead of to the tunnel, the rear cross becomes a lot straighter, but your dog should still understand to turn away from jump a. In this situation, I follow the line to marker P1, just as in the previous example, but I then make sure to do the cross a lot earlier, so my line after the cross can support the dog as he moves ahead toward jump B. and I don’t connect with my dog before the cross, because my moving to the left while the dog is moving toward the jump is enough of a cue to turn to balance the cues to drive ahead (the driving shoulder, the leading hand, and the line). 6 7 You can see the effect on the dog’s line if you don’t use marker P and apply the jigsaw rule. It is also difficult to follow Jenny’s first rule if you miss that marker. 9B 2 1 3 5 P1 P2 4 B A 10a Tight rear cross 1 2 3 5 P1 4 B A Next I’ll take a closer look at front crosses and blind crosses in real life, and add them to the different examples. I’ll also explain how I train and strengthen the meaning of “hand out” and “change of hands.” D 10B Straight rear cross In Jenny’s work as a full-time dog trainer in Sweden, she has owned and trained different breeds. Agility is her main sport and she has achieved several titles: FCI World Champion 2001, Crufts winner 2002, Nordic champion 2007, Swedish national champion 2008, four-time best agility dog of the year, WC Team Bronze in 2006, six-time Nordic team champion, and so on. She has presented her work in two DVDs. Contact her through www.lotuseducation.se. 76 Clean Run | August 09

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Clean Run Magazine - August 2009

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