Clean Run - August 2012 - 54

ground. It’s important that the dog is all the way at the end of the board when it hits. The further up on the board he is when it hits the ground, the more vibration he’ll experience. You should test this yourself. Place your hand on the end of the board and push it down, holding it down firmly. You’ll notice there is not a lot of bounce or vibration. Now repeat, but don’t hold it down firmly; you’ll feel the vibration. Now take your hand and place it higher in the contact zone when you push the board down. Notice how much you feel the vibration. It really is amazing. If these problems are not applicable to your dog, please see the “Pre-Bang Game” section for solving problems with getting on the board. Getting on Too Far Back I find that most dogs get on the board too far back from the end do so because of some of the problems mentioned in “Getting on the Board.” When I fix the issues described above, I find that most dogs will jump on the board near the end. The one thing I can do to help ensure that my dog gets on the board correctly is to give him enough room to jump on and keep his shoulders out of the way. I start the dog slightly angled toward the board, with his front as far from the board as the board is high.

Pre-Bang Game
The Pre-Bang Game is a skill-building exercise I developed to teach the dog how to confidently jump onto a narrow plank from a slice position and to help him learn the balance and weight shift necessary for controlling his body so that he doesn’t fall off the board. The dog learns what he needs to with his rear end to stay on the board and where he needs to be on the board while it’s in the air. The big dogs also learn not to reach for the ground while the board is in the air. Adding the Pre-Bang Game to my seesaw training program before doing the Bang Game has eliminated some of the problems people run into with the Bang Game.

word such as O.K. or use a generic Get Up command. When you release the dog, he should jump onto the end of the board, stand there, get rewarded, and then wait to be released with a verbal cue. When you reward the dog in position, make sure that his head is facing forward. Don’t reward the dog when you ask him to jump off the board—all rewards come while he’s waiting on the board.
© rachel sanders

When I teach the seesaw I work all the aspects of the performance at the same time: position work, Pre-Bang Game work (then Bang Game work), and two table work.

Teaching the Pre-Bang Game
In the Pre-Bang Game, the seesaw board does not move. You will be working the dog on the approach end of a regulation seesaw—that is, the end of the board that’s resting on the ground. You want the board off the ground, but you don’t want any tip. So rest the approach end on something low and sturdy that raises the board to about 12" (a couple of phone books, a plastic step stool, or a milk crate, for example). Holding the dog by the collar at your side, set him up so that he’s standing at a slight angle to the board, close to the end of the board. You want the dog to have enough room that he is able to jump onto the end of the board in a 4-on position (even the big dogs). You do not want to set up the dog so far back that he is jumping on and having to move to get to the end of the board. The dog should be looking at the end of the board, not toward you. If necessary to get him to focus on the area, tap the board several times with your finger. When you see the dog looking in that direction, cue him to get on the board. Just use a release

Reaching Off the Board or Coming Off the Board If my dog keeps having his back end come off the side of the board or keeps bouncing out of end position when the board hits, I need to teach him how to control his body while he’s getting on the board. If my dog is reaching for the ground early, I need to teach him to wait until the board hits. These skills are taught through the Pre-Bang Game.
54

Repeat this exercise until the dog is confidently jumping into position at the end of the board on both your left and right side. As with any other position work, teach the stay in that position by moving around the end of the board, and periodically going back to the dog and rewarding him for staying. Initially, you are not moving when you ask the dog to jump on the board, but once the dog is confident, you can add motion—first walking, then jogging, and finally running past him while he gets onto the board. The dog should hold his position on the board until verbally released. If the dog comes off the board, just mark it as an error, bring the dog back, and try again. If the dog repeats the error, decrease the speed at which
Clean Run | August 12



Clean Run - August 2012

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Clean Run - August 2012

Clean Run - August 2012
Contents
Editorializing: On Insanity
Tip of the Month
Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Agility…
Backyard Dogs
The Information Highway of Agility
Analyze This!
Footwork for Agility: Rear Crosses
Control Unleashed Solutions and Answers: The Bark Stops Here
Knowledge Equals Speed: Start-line Positioning & Lead-outs
Waiting for Your Turn in Agility Class
Agility Mind Gym: The Competition Mindset—Creating Power and Flow
Building Blocks: Weave Entries at Speed
From Hoof to Woof: What Riders Can Teach Handlers
Seesaw Training: The Bang Game and the Pre-Bang Game
But He’s Perfect at Home
Clean Run - August 2012 - Clean Run - August 2012
Clean Run - August 2012 - 2
Clean Run - August 2012 - Contents
Clean Run - August 2012 - 4
Clean Run - August 2012 - Editorializing: On Insanity
Clean Run - August 2012 - Tip of the Month
Clean Run - August 2012 - Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Agility…
Clean Run - August 2012 - Backyard Dogs
Clean Run - August 2012 - 9
Clean Run - August 2012 - The Information Highway of Agility
Clean Run - August 2012 - 11
Clean Run - August 2012 - Analyze This!
Clean Run - August 2012 - 13
Clean Run - August 2012 - 14
Clean Run - August 2012 - 15
Clean Run - August 2012 - 16
Clean Run - August 2012 - 17
Clean Run - August 2012 - 18
Clean Run - August 2012 - 19
Clean Run - August 2012 - 20
Clean Run - August 2012 - Footwork for Agility: Rear Crosses
Clean Run - August 2012 - 22
Clean Run - August 2012 - Control Unleashed Solutions and Answers: The Bark Stops Here
Clean Run - August 2012 - 24
Clean Run - August 2012 - 25
Clean Run - August 2012 - 26
Clean Run - August 2012 - 27
Clean Run - August 2012 - Knowledge Equals Speed: Start-line Positioning & Lead-outs
Clean Run - August 2012 - 29
Clean Run - August 2012 - 30
Clean Run - August 2012 - 31
Clean Run - August 2012 - 32
Clean Run - August 2012 - 33
Clean Run - August 2012 - Waiting for Your Turn in Agility Class
Clean Run - August 2012 - 35
Clean Run - August 2012 - Agility Mind Gym: The Competition Mindset—Creating Power and Flow
Clean Run - August 2012 - 37
Clean Run - August 2012 - 38
Clean Run - August 2012 - Building Blocks: Weave Entries at Speed
Clean Run - August 2012 - 40
Clean Run - August 2012 - 41
Clean Run - August 2012 - 42
Clean Run - August 2012 - 43
Clean Run - August 2012 - From Hoof to Woof: What Riders Can Teach Handlers
Clean Run - August 2012 - 45
Clean Run - August 2012 - 46
Clean Run - August 2012 - 47
Clean Run - August 2012 - 48
Clean Run - August 2012 - 49
Clean Run - August 2012 - 50
Clean Run - August 2012 - 51
Clean Run - August 2012 - Seesaw Training: The Bang Game and the Pre-Bang Game
Clean Run - August 2012 - 53
Clean Run - August 2012 - 54
Clean Run - August 2012 - 55
Clean Run - August 2012 - 56
Clean Run - August 2012 - 57
Clean Run - August 2012 - 58
Clean Run - August 2012 - 59
Clean Run - August 2012 - 60
Clean Run - August 2012 - 61
Clean Run - August 2012 - But He’s Perfect at Home
Clean Run - August 2012 - 63
Clean Run - August 2012 - 64
Clean Run - August 2012 - 65
Clean Run - August 2012 - 66
Clean Run - August 2012 - 67
Clean Run - August 2012 - 68
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