Clean Run - August 2018 - 25

to approach proofing. One way is kind of
mean; you are trying to trick the dog into
making a mistake so that you can punish
or scold him so that he will learn not to
make the mistake again. Once those dogs
are put into proofing scenarios, they don't
look like they are having fun anymore.

What You Need to Know Before You Start the Exercises........................................................

The other way to proof is much more
game-like. Yes, the dog is being tempted to
make a mistake, but one critical element
is different: both the dog and handler are
having fun, each one trying to outwit the
other in a game of who wins the reward.
The dog is inspired by the challenge of
winning the prize; all he has to do is
not get fooled by the handler. The tail is
wagging, eyes are bright, energy is being
generated. Both parties are smiling. No
one has an unfair advantage.

You can use a short travel plank, the end of the dogwalk, stairs, or any ramp, for this
training. I like to have a change in surface from where the back paws touch to where
the front paws touch. So, if your stairs are carpeted and the carpet continues onto the
floor, use a mat at the bottom (on the floor, not the last step).

The rules of any real game apply: it is win
or lose, and then we start again. The game
does not end with the loser being reprimanded or accused of a crime. The loser
is inspired to try harder to win because
lots of winning is happening, so winning
is possible. This means you are winning all
the time, you either get a great response or
an opportunity to teach your dog!

Groundwork
It is wise to do each proofing exercise with your dog in a sit-stay or stand-stay position,
away from the board, before you try the exercise with your dog in the 2-on/2-off position on a ramp.
Equipment

Beginning a Rep
For each rep, you will put your dog in the 2-on/2-off position. I backchain the position
in the initial stages of training so I can tell my dog to jump on the board and "assume
the position" on command. If you don't have that on cue, you can gently guide the dog
into the position using his collar, as long as he doesn't resent your hand in his collar
(another training project if so!).
Rewards
*

I'll talk about when and how to deliver food and toy rewards in each level of
training.

For each level of training, I do a ton of verbal praising. My praise is soft and cooing while my dog is doing the hard part (staying) and my praise is wild and exuberant (as long as the dog can still work after it and as long as that type of praise
is not intimidating for the dog) after I release him.

If Your Dog Breaks (Self-Releases)

Here are some tips that apply to all the
proofing we will be doing:

When the dog makes a mistake, keep smiling and reset him sweetly. Do not act disappointed! We need to act as if we are teaching "shake a paw" or some other silly trick
because we are! Isn't most of agility training just a series of tricks?

The dog must be able to win just the right
amount of times to keep him wanting to
play. You must manipulate the difficulty
of the game and the win/loss ratio.

The Release
Each one of the proofing "tests" must end with a "clean" release cue. This means you
are standing still and using a specific release word that you deliver with a distinct and
consistent voice inflection (upbeat!).

If the dog always wins without much effort, he will get bored.

The release behavior is a trick too; it has criteria. You want your dog to "spring" out of
position with enthusiasm. You can, and should, heavily reward your dog's more stellar
releases. Remember the wild and exuberant praise I mentioned!

If you are bored or act like this training is
a very serious matter, the dog won't enjoy
the work.
Flow, or a routine for restarting the game
each time, is needed. If the requirements
for starting the game are too complicated
(like having to line up to your leg every
time), it will become a drag for both
parties.
You want to get engaged with your dog
and move and speak in a way that builds
your dog's drive. You want to motivate
him and inspire him to work, but you
don't want to make his brain melt so he
can't think straight. For softer dogs, you
may just be whispering and smiling and
moving your body in an upbeat way.

August 18 | Clean Run

We must be careful not to teach the dog that the food or the praise being given for the
stay work is a desired part of the release. Since we are doing a lot of both, many dogs
will make that logical, but unwanted conclusion. Meaning the delivery of the reward or
praise will cause the dog to break out of the position. To avoid this problem, be sure to
pause for just a split-second between giving food or praise and issuing the release cue.
Do not run them all together.
Level One Proofing: Handler.........................................................................................
We are going to proof the 2-on/2-off position using you as the temptation. Each rep
you do will have praise and rewards and then a release or a re-set to start over if the dog
fails. A word about the rewards:
For this level, you will reward the dog with food while he is on the board (or ramp or
stairs). You will put the food in his mouth while he is in the 2-on/2-off position.
The exercises require you to move to different spots while your dog is waiting on the
board. You will return to your dog to reward him in position and then move back to
the location where you were when you decided to reward him. Then you can give the
release cue. Do not release the dog while you are close to him. Your leaving after you
reward him should not cause him to break his position; if it does, you will have to work
on that piece of the puzzle.
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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Clean Run - August 2018