Clean Run - August 2018 - 28

If you are using food or toys that roll:
Rolling is hard stuff and good practice. The
more something rolls away from your dog,
the harder it will be for the dog to stay. "The
"prey" is getting away! Something must be
done! I will catch it now!" thinks the clever
dog. I wait until the rolling is over before
I release and pay (reward) extra for selfcontrol when lots of rolling has occurred.
All of my dogs have had a "roll factor"
breaking point when I start tossing things
that roll. Be patient with your dog, understand how hard it is for him! Decrease the
level or rolling (you might have to switch
what you are pitching) when needed so that
your dog can have success.
Adding Difficulty
When proofing with food and toys your
position matters! So to add difficulty to
your food and toy proofing, change your
location when you release your dog as
shown in Figure 2. The closer you are to
the reinforcement ("R"), the easier it is for
the dog not to steal (self-release). Your being in a position next to the reinforcement
is the easiest for the dog. Being in a triangle with the dog and the reinforcement
(step 3 in the diagram) is more difficult.
Being behind your dog is the hardest,
but it is where you need to end up for the
next steps of the program. When you are
behind your dog, the dog must understand
to stare forward (forward focus). At this
stage you will always release your dog forward to the reinforcement. You can praise
the dog while he's staying in position, but
do not reward the dog on the board.
Your eventual goal is to be able to stand
behind your dog and "whip" toys and food
over his head with you 10-12ft. behind
him and then release him forward to the
food or toy. Oh yeah, don't forget the forward focus. We want him staring at the
object until he is released. Bonus points:
you can softly whisper "gooood doooog,"
and he will understand to keep staring at
the object rather than looking back at you.
I believe your dog must be able to do these
exercises if he's going to be able to hold his
2-on/2-off position in competition when
you are running, he is very excited, and a
tunnel is staring back at him!

Here are five steps labeled from #1 for the easiest to #5 being the
most difficult for the dog. Each step shows you getting farther away
from the reinforcement ("R") so that eventually the dog is closer to the
object than you are. You may need more than five steps, especially
after you hit the midway point (step #3). Your dog will find it difficult to
stay in position when you are behind him and what he wants is in front
of him, but his job is to stare forward (forward focus). At this stage you
will always release him forward to get the reinforcement.

I like to say "today a toy, tomorrow a tunnel." Peter is thinking like an agility dog!
He is tempting Yoshio with this giant "toy."
Next Month.....................................................................................................................
Next month our drills will progress to adding more movement and more excitement
for both dog and handler. We will also start the training for the dog to go ahead to his
position without you escorting him. D

Sandy Rogers has been teaching obedience and agility since 1991, and founded ACE Dog Sports in San Francisco, California in 1999. Her dogs have competed in the
USDAA and AKC national championship finals multiple times in four jump heights. Sandy and Jack Russell Terrier Quill competed on Team USA at the World Agility
Open in 2011-2013, winning individual gold and silver in 2012 and bronze in 2013. Quill won the 2013 USDAA Grand Prix Finals, and placed second at the 2012 and
2014 AKC Nationals. Sandy has two DVDs available: One Jump Two Jump and Feet First. To contact Sandy, email sandyrogers@acedogsports.com.
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Clean Run | August 18

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