Clean Run Magazine - December 2009 - 68

A handling seminar that will fit in your training bag. performance and never let more than three weeks pass without reviewing some of the earlier backchaining exercises, including the Bang Game and two-table work on the teeter. When sequencing I follow the steps outlined in my DVD Contacts: Bridging the Gap and constantly vary where I am when I release my dog. Even with all the training and attempts to build an independent behavior, problems will inevitably occur at some point when you start to compete. Is your dog taking the obstacle at the same or similar speed? Time your contact obstacles in training and competition. Motivate your dog in training so he is performing the obstacle at the same speed as in competition. Work with some friends whose dogs excite your dog, use high-value food, run faster along the dogwalk with your dog, and/or play tug before sending your dog over the contact. If your dog cannot stop at an increased speed in training you cannot expect him to stop in competition. When working this problem, if the dog comes off the contact I try several things in the progression described below to help train better understanding. Initially, I simply do not reward and I repeat the sequence to see if the dog attempts to stop. If the dog comes off the dogwalk again I may tell him to Touch and expect him to put himself back on the dogwalk and stop in the two-on/two-off position. Be careful; you don’t want your dog to chain the behavior of coming off the dogwalk and then replacing himself. I only do this for a few sessions; it is always done on cue, and I stop if it doesn’t result in the dog stopping correctly in that session. I have also placed a target again for any nose-touch dogs, but only for a few repetitions in a session. Once I get the dog to stop I remove the target and repeat the dogwalk a few more times. When I know the dog can stop in the twoon/two-off position at speed, I discontinue these baby steps that have helped him be successful. If he fails to stop again I simply do not reward and repeat the sequence again. When I repeat the sequence I try to ensure I don’t allow my dog to execute the dogwalk at a slower speed. If he is slower and stops, I am rewarding slowness and not the speed and accuracy I want. After a few sessions of repeating the obstacle in response to my dog’s failure to stop, I change the consequence for his not stopping and give him a short time-out. Perhaps I get another dog and train him while my other dog watches. Do you always carry food or toys with you and reward over 50% of the time? Try not carrying food or toys with you for a few weeks in practice. You can praise your dog when he is in the two-on/two-off position but don’t feed or play tug. Design your sequences so that you do several contacts in one exercise. I have found that you need in ConCluSion The concept of the two-on/two-off position appears to be an easy one for most dogs to learn. I have witnessed the two-on/two-off behavior generalized to a step, a low table, and even a dog bed. However, the full contact obstacle performed with speed, independence, and a wait for the release cue is a more difficult behavior to train and requires time and patience. Even with a solid foundation of training the behavior can deteriorate over time with the excitement of competition and the handler’s inconsistencies. The behavior needs to be maintained and it is necessary to review the training regularly throughout the dog’s agility career. This special collector’s edition of Clean Run is all about handling: Linda Mecklenburg describes her system for giving the dog early notice of direction changes, Susan Garrett details correct front-cross footwork, Jane SimmonsMoake shows how crossing behind a layer back can put you way ahead, Nancy Gyes looks at setting up efﬁcient lines, Jo Sermon explains how to reward turns at a distance, Deb Jones talks about the blind cross, Chris Zink shows how to train for lead changes, Tracy Sklenar explains the false turn, a photo glossary of handling maneuvers, and much more! 104 pages Problem Solving anD faqS Dog is not stopping on the contact in the ring. Does your dog truly know what the two-on/ two-off cue means? Place your dog at the midpoint of the down dogwalk ramp, facing the end. Without moving forward give your dog his Touch cue. Is your dog hesitant to move forward? If so, review your original training; return to the backchaining you did originally while varying your position when you ask your dog to Touch. Also stand with your dog at your side a few feet from the contact and, without moving, ask your dog to Touch. Your dog should be able to jump up on the contact and take up the two-on/two-off position with only a verbal cue while you are several feet away. You may have to start backchaining only 6"-12" from the end of the board and gradually increase the distance you move the dog back. ® www.cleanrun.com Clean Run | December 09

http://www.cleanrun.com

Clean Run Magazine - December 2009

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Clean Run Magazine - December 2009