LaunchPad - April 2012 - (Page 78)

ONLY HUE PETER SOM Get Into Embolden makeup designs by concentrating color at the eyelid crease. —Karie L. Frost At Peter Som’s spring showing, they were referred to as “bananas.” For Phillip Lim, geometry influenced their arched rise. Whatever the case, dramatic creases became a makeup focal point at several shows, posing the question: Exactly how do you keep the shadow color so right-and-tight for this look? Los Angeles-based editorial makeup artist Marina Gravani breaks down how to in-crease your eye makeup designs. the Groove Choose Your Bristles: Though you can achieve this look with a standard crease eye shadow brush, Gravani advises staying away from the fluff. “Fluffy bristles help to blend shadow, but with this look you want the color and shape to be more exaggerated, less blended,” she explains. Look for hairs that are stiffer and shorter. Ace Your Base: Apply a pale, shimmer eye shadow on the entire lid, from lashes to brow. “This will help ‘pop’ the crease design,” Gravani notes. Above and Beyond: Select a matte shadow with a IM ILLIP L 3.1 PH heavy pigment payoff. “It should be the type of shadow you’d use as an eyeliner,” she shares. Load the very tip of your brush with the shadow and trace just above the natural crease of the eye. “You don’t want your application right in the crease because it won’t be as noticeable,” Gravani says. Drag, Don’t Dot: Don’t be tempted to pick up the Clean Up: Crease looking a little jagged? Go back in brush as you drag it across the lid. “If you pick up the brush and put it back down, you’ll start blending the color,” Gravani warns. with a dampened cotton swab and lightly clean up your edges. To perfect the crease even further, Gravani recommends waiting until the dampened areas dry, and then “tracing back over the area you cleaned up with your base shadow.” Groove Guiders: Try these products for crease mastery. Sormé Treatment Under Shadow Eye Shadow Base: Locks in the pigment where you want it ( Mirabella Eye Colour Matte in Serenity: Creates a perfect base ( Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics Crease/Smudge Brush: Stiff pony hair bristles tighten your design ( Face Atelier Eye Shadow in Blue Steel: High-pigment color defines the crease ( 78 4.12 Images: Andreea Angelescu GIORGIO ARMANI

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of LaunchPad - April 2012

LaunchPad - April 2012
Editor’s Notebook
In Touch
Runway Report
Star Struck
First Look
Inside Story
Brand New
Color Lab
Male Order
Tool Talk
My Way
20 Questions
Head of the Class
Salon of the Month
Beauty 911
Saving Face
Only Hue
Free Launch
Green Light Beauty
Cutting Board
Quick Tips
Advertiser Index
Look of the Month

LaunchPad - April 2012