Nailpro - October 2017 - 62

GUEST EDITOR

Ask Doug
Doug Schoon, president of Schoon
Scientific, joins NAILPRO this month to
provide you with advice and answers
to your nail questions. Here, an excerpt
from his latest book, Face-to-Face With
Doug Schoon: Volume II.
Our next guest editor is Jackie Truong, director of education for LeChat.
Have a question for Jackie? Email it to nailpro@creativeage.com.

Q
A

My teacher told me that soaking nails too long in water
would dry them out. That doesn't make sense to me. Is
this true?
It's a very common misunderstanding that soaking the
nails dries them out. Water cannot cause anything to
become dry. I think that what your teacher is trying to say
is that excessive water exposure can damage some nail plates
when they are repeatedly exposed to water and then dried out.
Excessive water exposure can cause tiny cracks to rapidly grow
into larger ones or the nail plate to peel more at the free-edge. This
damage is sometimes confused with dryness, even though it is not
the same.
So, how does water cause this damage to occur? When water
is absorbed, the nail plate swells (which may cause cracks to grow)
and the surface of the nail plate becomes softer and more prone to
damage. Softened nail plates are easier to damage with physical

62

NAILPRO

OCTOBER

2017

actions, such as prying, picking, scraping, filing, etc. While water
gets the blame, heavy-handed nail techs usually cause much of the
surface damage. Be cautious! A good general rule to remember:
When the nail plate is soaked in water or other solvents for more
than 60 seconds, expect the surface to be more susceptible to
damage for the next hour.

Q
A

We have a difficult client who has ridges in her nail plates.
She won't allow any techs to buff them because she says
it causes them to crack and bleed. How can I explain to
her that buffing is OK?
Actually, I agree with your client. It's normal to see shallow
grooves on the nail plate of people older than 30 and it's
considered a normal sign of healthy aging. The nail plate
develops shallow grooves when an aging (or damaged) nail matrix
makes fewer new nail cells in certain areas; the ridges are, in fact,
the edges of these shallow grooves.
I don't recommend filing to remove these ridges. Why? Buffing
away the ridges will thin the nail plate down to the bottom of the
deepest groove on the plate. Yikes! A reduction in plate thickness
often leads to poor adhesion of nail coatings, and excessive plate
thinning can also cause the nail's surface to peel excessively and/
or crack at the free edge. Rather than filing or buffing, it is far better
to use an opaque base coat to fill and cover the grooves. This will
maintain the thickness and integrity of the nail plate. Overlaying the
nail plate with a thin layer of any type of artificial nail coating can
also camouflage the grooves and reinforce the nail plate.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF DOUG SCHOON

Q
A

I know the nail plate can absorb moisture and oil. Can it
also absorb acetone or other chemicals found in gel polish,
acrylic or lacquer?
An unbroken nail plate is very difficult to penetrate. Acetone is
very volatile and evaporates too quickly from the nail plate to
penetrate very far. Besides water and nail oils, any ingredient
in nail products that does penetrate the surface will be restricted to
the upper layers of the nail plate. So, in short, it is unlikely that any
significant amount of the nail products mentioned above can absorb
beyond the surface or upper layers of the nail plate.



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Nailpro - October 2017

Contents
Nailpro - October 2017 - Intro
Nailpro - October 2017 - Cover1
Nailpro - October 2017 - IBD_L
Nailpro - October 2017 - IBD
Nailpro - October 2017 - Cover2
Nailpro - October 2017 - 1
Nailpro - October 2017 - 2
Nailpro - October 2017 - 3
Nailpro - October 2017 - 4
Nailpro - October 2017 - 5
Nailpro - October 2017 - 6
Nailpro - October 2017 - 7
Nailpro - October 2017 - 8
Nailpro - October 2017 - 9
Nailpro - October 2017 - 10
Nailpro - October 2017 - 11
Nailpro - October 2017 - 12
Nailpro - October 2017 - 13
Nailpro - October 2017 - 14
Nailpro - October 2017 - 15
Nailpro - October 2017 - 16
Nailpro - October 2017 - 17
Nailpro - October 2017 - 18
Nailpro - October 2017 - 19
Nailpro - October 2017 - 20
Nailpro - October 2017 - 21
Nailpro - October 2017 - Contents
Nailpro - October 2017 - 23
Nailpro - October 2017 - 24
Nailpro - October 2017 - 25
Nailpro - October 2017 - 26
Nailpro - October 2017 - 27
Nailpro - October 2017 - 28
Nailpro - October 2017 - 29
Nailpro - October 2017 - 30
Nailpro - October 2017 - 31
Nailpro - October 2017 - 32
Nailpro - October 2017 - 33
Nailpro - October 2017 - 34
Nailpro - October 2017 - 35
Nailpro - October 2017 - 36
Nailpro - October 2017 - 37
Nailpro - October 2017 - 38
Nailpro - October 2017 - 39
Nailpro - October 2017 - 40
Nailpro - October 2017 - 41
Nailpro - October 2017 - 42
Nailpro - October 2017 - 43
Nailpro - October 2017 - 44
Nailpro - October 2017 - 45
Nailpro - October 2017 - 46
Nailpro - October 2017 - 47
Nailpro - October 2017 - 48
Nailpro - October 2017 - 49
Nailpro - October 2017 - 50
Nailpro - October 2017 - 51
Nailpro - October 2017 - 52
Nailpro - October 2017 - 53
Nailpro - October 2017 - 54
Nailpro - October 2017 - 55
Nailpro - October 2017 - 56
Nailpro - October 2017 - 57
Nailpro - October 2017 - 58
Nailpro - October 2017 - 59
Nailpro - October 2017 - 60
Nailpro - October 2017 - 61
Nailpro - October 2017 - 62
Nailpro - October 2017 - 63
Nailpro - October 2017 - 64
Nailpro - October 2017 - 65
Nailpro - October 2017 - 66
Nailpro - October 2017 - 67
Nailpro - October 2017 - 68
Nailpro - October 2017 - 69
Nailpro - October 2017 - 70
Nailpro - October 2017 - 71
Nailpro - October 2017 - 72
Nailpro - October 2017 - 73
Nailpro - October 2017 - 74
Nailpro - October 2017 - 75
Nailpro - October 2017 - 76
Nailpro - October 2017 - 77
Nailpro - October 2017 - 78
Nailpro - October 2017 - 79
Nailpro - October 2017 - 80
Nailpro - October 2017 - 81
Nailpro - October 2017 - 82
Nailpro - October 2017 - 83
Nailpro - October 2017 - 84
Nailpro - October 2017 - 85
Nailpro - October 2017 - 86
Nailpro - October 2017 - 87
Nailpro - October 2017 - 88
Nailpro - October 2017 - 89
Nailpro - October 2017 - 90
Nailpro - October 2017 - 91
Nailpro - October 2017 - 92
Nailpro - October 2017 - 93
Nailpro - October 2017 - 94
Nailpro - October 2017 - 95
Nailpro - October 2017 - 96
Nailpro - October 2017 - 97
Nailpro - October 2017 - 98
Nailpro - October 2017 - 99
Nailpro - October 2017 - 100
Nailpro - October 2017 - 101
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Nailpro - October 2017 - 103
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Nailpro - October 2017 - 105
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Nailpro - October 2017 - 108
Nailpro - October 2017 - 109
Nailpro - October 2017 - 110
Nailpro - October 2017 - 111
Nailpro - October 2017 - 112
Nailpro - October 2017 - 113
Nailpro - October 2017 - 114
Nailpro - October 2017 - 115
Nailpro - October 2017 - 116
Nailpro - October 2017 - 117
Nailpro - October 2017 - 118
Nailpro - October 2017 - 119
Nailpro - October 2017 - 120
Nailpro - October 2017 - 121
Nailpro - October 2017 - 122
Nailpro - October 2017 - 123
Nailpro - October 2017 - 124
Nailpro - October 2017 - 125
Nailpro - October 2017 - 126
Nailpro - October 2017 - 127
Nailpro - October 2017 - 128
Nailpro - October 2017 - 129
Nailpro - October 2017 - 130
Nailpro - October 2017 - 131
Nailpro - October 2017 - 132
Nailpro - October 2017 - 133
Nailpro - October 2017 - 134
Nailpro - October 2017 - 135
Nailpro - October 2017 - 136
Nailpro - October 2017 - Cover3
Nailpro - October 2017 - Cover4
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