Winston Salem Visitor Guide - 2020 - 30
EAT & DRINK
atradition
sweet
Just south of Winston-Salem, the family owned and operated
Mrs. Hanes' Hand-Made Moravian Cookies still makes
and fulfills all their orders the old-fashioned way.
A
t 87, Travis Hanes is a jovial tour guide. Leading
a dozen visitors past the window-lined industrial
kitchen, where the company's "artists in aprons" knead
molasses-colored dough and roll out those iconic, paperthin cookies, he points out the bakers are particularly busy
preparing for the holidays. "We sell seven million Moravian
ginger cookies in a two-month period."
Travis gestures to a blue, wood-fired stove that inspired his
wife, Evva's, earliest memory. "I can remember my mother
making cookies and me sliding down under the wood cook
stove, sucking my bottle," says Evva. "The ginger cookie is
a Moravian Christmas tradition. But my mother developed
the sugar cookie recipe, and nobody made it except us. Now
everybody makes a variation, but we were the first."
Evva's mother, Bertha, sold her cookies to local WinstonSalem bakeries, like Dewey's, to supplement the family's dairy
30 | 2020 OFFICIAL VISITOR & RELOCATION GUIDE
farming income. "My mother was the best cook in the world,"
Evva adds. Bertha soon put Evva to work. "Her job was to
watch the oven," explains Travis. When Moravian cookies go
into the oven, they're less than an eighth of an inch thick -
so just a sliver of seconds can mean the difference between
a perfect, crisp cookie and a burned disc. "There was no
thermometer. She had to know from the aromas coming out
whether they were baked or not."
Evva spent more than two decades perfecting her cookie craft
under Bertha's expert eye. At 29, she quit her job as a Hanes
Hosiery inspector to work with her mother full-time. By then,
Evva and Travis had fallen in love and married. They lived
in a house on the family's dairy farm and eventually added
an industrial kitchen to their basement, where Bertha came
to work for Evva. Travis and Evva had four children, two of
whom joined the family business - Mona as president and her
Photos by Brittany Butterworth
By: r obin sut ton a nd e rs
Winston Salem Visitor Guide - 2020
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Winston Salem Visitor Guide - 2020
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