Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 17

What I’ve discovered is the latter, the smoke, is like having another spice to play with. And each is very distinctive.
Applewood smoke is completely different from hickory smoke, which is completely different from sassafras smoke or mesquite
smoke. Some wood smokes are more neutral, and some are spicier.
We now repurpose branches from our fallen oak trees as fuel for cooking fires. Most oak is neutral, which makes it easy to
cook with and a good choice if heat is the objective but not necessarily flavor. Hickory is just the opposite: its flavors are too
aggressive for most of the things we cook here at the winery. (Curing hams and bacon with hickory uses the cold smoke
technique, which cooks at low temperatures with water-splashed embers over a period of days.) And green wood—timber
that has not dried or “seasoned” properly—does not make good fuel. It can have an off-putting aroma and influence on food.
Fruit-tree wood is excellent for cooking. We now take prunings from our stone fruit trees in the garden and reuse them as
firewood to add fruit nuances to the smoky flavor. All of the spring prunings from our olive trees are collected by our staff
and delivered to the oven’s wood pile. The use of olive branches to smoke olive tapenade dishes fully enhances the delicious,
pungent flavors.
To test a different type of wood, I build a small fire outside the oven and smell the smoke. This will provide an indication of
the flavor it will impart on food. Winemaker Rob Davis constantly experiments with a variety of French and American oak
barrels, which are toasted at different intensities. The various toasts, from mild to dark, are not unlike cooking bread in a
toaster at different levels, and the end result influences the flavor of Jordan wines. I like to do the same type of experiments
with wood that fuels the oven.
Additionally, different types of wood will burn hotter than others. Depending on what I’m cooking—pizza works best in a
really hot oven while roasted squab can be cooked at a lower temperature—I use a specific type of wood or combination to get
the right temperature and smoke flavor profile.
17


http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-cold-smoking.htm

Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011

Contents
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 1
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 2
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 3
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - Contents
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 5
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 6
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 7
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 8
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 9
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 10
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 11
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 12
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 13
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 14
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 15
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 16
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 17
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 18
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 19
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 20
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 21
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 22
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 23
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 24
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 25
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 26
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 27
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 28
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 29
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 30
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 31
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 32
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 33
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 34
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 35
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 36
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 37
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 38
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 39
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 40
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 41
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 42
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 43
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 44
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 45
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 46
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 47
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 48
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 49
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 50
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 51
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 52
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 53
Jordan Estate Tales - Volume 6, 2011 - 54
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/eloquent/jordanestatetales2016vol11
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/eloquent/jordanestatetales2015vol10
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/eloquent/jordanestatetales2014vol9
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/eloquent/jordanestatetales2011vol6
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/eloquent/jordanestatetales2012vol7
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/eloquent/jordanestatetales2013vol8
https://www.nxtbook.com/dino/jordanestatetales/jordanestatetales
https://www.nxtbookmedia.com