Jordan Wine Country Table - Vol. 15, 2020 - 34
FOOD & DRINK
SUMMER IS
FOR SUNCRESTS
CALIFORNIA MAY GROW HUNDREDS OF VARIETIES OF AMERICA'S
FAVORITE FUZZY FRUIT, BUT THE RAREST ARE WORTH THE HUNT
ew things herald the arrival of summer like the taste of
a ripe, juicy peach. Here in California, we're fortunate
to be surrounded by family farms that grow some
truly incredible peaches, from firm varieties that are
great for grilling to drip-down-your-chin juice bombs
that beg for immediate consumption. At Jordan Winery, peaches
feature prominently in Executive Chef Todd Knoll's summer
menus, lending their sunset colors and succulence to salads, side
dishes and desserts.
F
One of Chef Knoll's favorite varieties is the suncrest, an heirloom
peach with an orange-gold color and juicy yellow flesh, also known
as freestone in California. The variety was immortalized by Central
Valley farmer Mas Masumoto's now-famous Los Angeles Times
essay " Epitaph for a Peach, " in which he praised the suncrest as
a peach that " exploded in your mouth and tickled you with the
message, 'Aaah, this is a peach!' "
In 1987, when Masumoto's essay was published, there were
virtually no commercial buyers left for California's suncrest peaches
because of their short shelf life and cosmetic imperfections.
34
But thanks to " Epitaph for a Peach, " interest in the variety was
renewed, and family farmers like Masumoto decided not to rip
out their orchards in favor of more profitable fruits.
They're still rarely-if ever-seen in grocery stores, but suncrests
can sometimes be found at farmers markets and through specialty
fruit purveyors. Whenever they're in season and available, Knoll
gets them from one of his favorite suppliers, Kory Stewart of Napa
Wild. " His fruit is always beautifully fragrant and ripe, " Knoll says,
" harvested at just the right day, if not moment. "
Stewart spent several years as a chef at Hotel
Vitale in San Francisco, and developed close
relationships with vendors at the nearby Ferry
Plaza Farmers Market. The experience inspired
him to start a business, sourcing fruit from local
farms for Bay Area restaurants and wineries.
Today some of Napa Wild's most notable
restaurant clients include Seven Hills in San
Francisco, Morimoto and La Toque in Napa, and
SingleThread and Valette in Healdsburg.
Jordan Wine Country Table - Vol. 15, 2020
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Jordan Wine Country Table - Vol. 15, 2020 - Cover3
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