Jordan Wine Country Table - Vol. 15, 2020 - 35

" I only want exceptional fruit, so I drive out to the farms and
taste what they're growing, " he says. Stewart buys what he likes,
then sends an email to his client list each week to let them know
what's available.
Stewart sources suncrest peaches from K&J Orchards in Winters,
about 30 miles west of Sacramento. The 100-acre farm was
founded in 1982 by James Beutel, a former horticulture professor
specializing in fruit cultivation, and his wife Kalayada Ammatya.
The operation is now run by the couple and their two daughters.
When scouting for peaches, Stewart says, " I look for fruit that feels
heavy for its size, and I look for great varieties, " like the suncrest.
Knoll loves all kinds of peaches for both eating and cooking, but he
especially appreciates suncrest's balanced sweetness. " I want good
acidity, " he says. " At the peak of ripeness the sugar is right there
with the acid, and that's what is most amazing about this peach. "
At farmers markets, Knoll seeks out fruit that is slightly firm with a
little bit of give, so he can let the peaches finish ripening on the
kitchen counter. Sugars in peaches can triple in just a few days, so
it's important to check them daily. " Don't put peaches in
the refrigerator unless they are becoming too ripe, "
he says. " A neglected peach will overripen quickly, like the elusive
perfect pear. We are trying to capture the perfect moment. "
Along with simply devouring them on their own, Knoll incorporates
peaches into a variety of dishes at Jordan. One of his summer
favorites is a salad combining peaches with grilled corn, haricots
verts, roasted hazelnuts and baby arugula, tossed with a simple
dressing of sherry vinegar, fresh lemon, mustard, thyme and shallots
-an excellent match for a chilled glass of Jordan Chardonnay.
He also uses peaches to accent meat dishes. A sweet and savory
peach glaze, for example, brings out the natural sweetness in
pork. Peaches also make a lovely accompaniment when glazed
alongside carrots in a coffee kombucha syrup, accented with
pickled mustard seed and pink peppercorns.
" The interplay of sweetness, aroma and flavor in the peaches adds
flavor and dimension to the plate, " Knoll says. " Their applications
go far beyond desserts. "
When peaches are in season, you'll often find them on the menu
for Jordan's Estate Tour & Tasting, Harvest Lunches and Culinary
Events. It just wouldn't be summer without them.
35

Jordan Wine Country Table - Vol. 15, 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Jordan Wine Country Table - Vol. 15, 2020

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