Jordan Wine Country Table - Vol. 15, 2020 - 48
FOOD & DRINK
COOKING
WITH KOMBUCHA
DISCOVER CREATIVE WAYS TO USE FERMENTED TEA IN YOUR KITCHEN
By Tina Caputo
K
ombucha may be having a moment, but
the fermented drink is far from new. It is
said to have originated more than 2,000
years ago in China, where it was known
as The Tea of Immortality. It was also
used in Russia, Eastern Europe and Japan for centuries
before making its way to the United States.
The drink is made by adding a symbiotic culture of
bacteria and yeast (SCOBY) to sweetened tea. Just as
yeast consume the sugar in wine to produce alcohol
during the fermentation process, the SCOBY eats
the sugar and tannins in the tea to create byproducts
such as B vitamins and antioxidants, which can aid
digestion and boost the immune system.
The SCOBY is removed after initial fermentation is
complete, and flavorings such as fresh fruit, herbs or
juices may be added for a secondary fermentation in
the bottle. The resulting drink is slightly effervescent,
with a tart, tangy flavor.
Kombucha is most often consumed as a beverage, but
it can also be used as an ingredient in cooking. Todd
Knoll, executive chef at Jordan Winery, was inspired
to start brewing his own kombucha to use in recipes
after reading The Noma Guide to Fermentation by
René Redzepi, chef at the legendary Noma restaurant
in Copenhagen, and Ferment by renowned Australian
chef Holly Davis.
Along with standard kombucha, Knoll makes a
variation called " jun tea, " brewed with a special SCOBY
which, through careful selection over time, feeds
on honey rather than sugar for a brighter and more
delicate flavor.
" SCOBYs are now available online from many
sources. The most dependable for us has been
Fermentaholics Organic SCOBY with Tea (available
online). The SCOBY always arrives healthy and wellpackaged, "
Knoll says. " A well-cared-for SCOBY will
continue to produce indefinitely. Simply add some
of the kombucha from the previous batch, along with
sugar or honey as a food source. "
Rather than just drinking his kombuchas, Knoll
reduces them in a pan on the stovetop to create
highly concentrated syrups and glazes. " I found these
syrups to be the most interesting addition to our work
in the kitchen in a long time, " he says. " Kombucha
has a rounder acidity, making it much more winefriendly
than vinegar, but we use it like a vinegar
in cooking. "
Glazing carrots in coffee kombucha syrup was the
first technique he worked on and branched out from
there. Knoll then developed a rose kombucha syrup
to finish a light quail broth, and blended a lobster
and halibut fumet with passion fruit and mango jun
tea to create a fragrant pour-over for a lobster dish.
He also reduces kombucha glazes for brushing over
duck and pork.
" It has a complex and unique flavor profile, " Knoll
says. " No one has put their finger on it yet. "
48
Jordan Wine Country Table - Vol. 15, 2020
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