Boutique Design - September 2018 - 32

SECOND SITE
DesignAgency re-envisions two of its previous restaurant designs
for David Chang as one red-hot showcase for this star chef's new
Japanese-meets-Colombian concept, Ko¯jin, in Toronto.
BY MARY SCOVIAK

since the dynamic chef and Momofuku restaurant group
founder brought a sampling of his New York-based culinary
concepts over the border in 2012. The five eateries housed in the
James K.M. Cheng and Hariri Pontarini Architects' cantilevered,
glass "ice cube" that projects over University Avenue layered
something-for-everyone appeal into the three-story space-
from the comfort food/Zen design of the main floor's Momofuku Noodle Bar to the need-for-a-treat (or a retreat) Milk Bar
dessert destination and Nikai lounge on the next level, and the
sophisticated, yet casual cool of the upmarket Daisho¯ seafood/
steakhouse and Sho¯to¯, a seasonal chef 's table, located at the
top of the transparent box.
Everything from the fare to the flair to the FF&E was high
visibility. So when Chang announced late last year that he was
closing the two third-floor dining venues, it made a lot of noise.
The controversial chef, Michelin-starred restaurateur, cookbook
author and star of the Netflix "Ugly Delicious" cooking/travel/
history series challenged himself, his team and long-time collaborator, Toronto-based DesignAgency, to turn the bang of that
closure into worldwide buzz.
Chang was ready for something different. He saw an opportunity to explore new culinary and aesthetic territory with a Japanese/
South American-inflected concept that would span the 2,000-sq.-ft.
expanse that had been home to Daisho
¯ and Sho
¯to
¯. His vision
became the inspiration for Ko
jin,
a
97-seat
restaurant
named for the
¯
Japanese god of fire, hearth and the kitchen. He worked with rising
in-house star chef Paula Navarrete to build a menu around the
grilled foods of her Colombian childhood, the real-deal meals
served in Japan's izakayas (pubs), Ontario's local meat and produce
offerings and the multicultural influences that are the hallmark of
Momofuku's brand. As always, form followed food.
DesignAgency's founding partners and principals Allen Chan,
Matt Davis and Anwar Mekhayech already knew the lay of the
32

boutiquedesign.com September 2018

architectural land. They and their team shaped the interiors for
all of the dining destinations in the Momofuku complex.
"Aside from the oak fin cube floating above the dining room,
every aspect of Ko
¯jin is new," says Mekhayech, who served as
client lead on this project. The white oak framework that served
as a perfect quiet backdrop for an intimate chef 's table was no
match for an earthy restaurant energized by fiery food prep.
Instead, the designers specified smoky, moody elements such as
black leather stools and oxblood leather banquettes to immerse
guests in the drama of evening meals enjoyed around Colombian

MATT DAVIS, ANWAR MEKHAYECH AND ALLEN CHAN
DESIGNAGENCY

-
BOB GUNDU (KOJIN); SAT Y + PR ATHA (CHAN, DAVIS, MEKHAYECH)

DAVID ChAng hAS Been a staple on Toronto's food scene

http://www.boutiquedesign.com

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