Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 30

GEORGIA Cooks

By H.M. Cauley

Splendid stew

JENNIFER J. HEWETT

T

he New Georgia Encyclopedia credits
Decatur High School alum Roy Blount Jr.
with the definition of Brunswick stew: It's
Above: From left, siblings Howard Hsu, Anita Hsu and Ronald Hsu
grew up in restaurants run by their Chinese-Malaysian immigrant
"what happens when small mammals carrying ears
parents. Today, Howard and Anita Hsu run Sweet Auburn Barbecue in
of corn fall into barbeque pits."
Atlanta, which features Southern-style barbecue with an Asian twist.
The description and origin of this long-loved
Right: Sweet Auburn Barbecue's Korean Army-Style Brunswick Stew.
Southern side dish have been the causes of contentious debates for decades. Was it created in Brunswick,
stew is the most noteworthy thing. You're more
Ga., or Brunswick County, Va.? Does it have beans or
likely to find it served with barbecue in Georgia than
not? Alas, no one has a definitive answer.
anywhere else in the world."
Mixing meat with corn, beans or squash to form a hearty
Auchmutey, who has the recipe his greatstew is a tradition that anthropologists trace to ancient times.
grandfather used to turn out batches of stew for
The New Georgia Encyclopedia records Georgia diners supping
community gatherings years ago in Bartow County,
on the stew in the 1880s,
found late-1890s newspaper references to a hearty
when the meat was often
hunter's stew sometimes made with leftovers. It ususquirrel, rabbit or other wild
ally was served at barbecue events, which often were
game, and it also menfundraisers for political or civic causes.
tions a Toccoa version with
"If [a political party] had a barbecue fundraiser,
maraschino cherries, lemons
they probably had a stew with it," Auchmutey says.
and applesauce. While the
"A church in 1890 was probably making it. And the
ingredients vary from region
varieties are similar across the South."
to region and chef to chef,
Today, many Georgia chefs add chicken and
most contemporary recipes
pork; in Virginia, chicken is the main meat. The
feature chicken, pork, beef or
assortment of vegetables also varies. The most
a combination of all three.
traditional ingredients are tomatoes and corn, but
"Brunswick stew is a
lima beans, diced potatoes or okra may be added. At
malleable concept," says Jim
Scott's Walk-up Bar-B-Que in Cartersville, the cooks
Auchmutey, a former Atlanta
keep to the basics.
Journal-Constitution writer
"Ours is a traditional Brunswick stew with
and author of "Smokelore: A
chicken, pork, beef and corn with spices and a few
Short History of Barbecue in
secret ingredients in a tomato base," owner Craig
America."
Guyton says. "It's very versatile and hearty. We sell it
"There's a wide variety
by the gallon, and people eat it for a week. But you're
of ingredients and seasonnot going to get to the bottom of what's original;
ings people put in it and
what somebody does in South Georgia is different
small specialties in this town
from what someone does in North Georgia."
and that town," he says. "But
A monument in Mary Ross Waterfront Park in
At Marietta's popular Sam's BBQ-1, the base
when you look at what makes
Brunswick touts Georgia's claim as the home
of the Brunswick stew recipe dates to the late 1970s.
Georgia barbecue distinctive,
of Brunswick stew.
It's undergone alterations, but the current version
the prevalence of Brunswick

30

Georgia Magazine

GIANNA KEIKO

Brunswick's namesake dish is open
to interpretation

July 2020

30-32_Cooks_0720_USE_THIS.indd 30

6/12/20 11:44 AM

K
B

C
1
1
3
1
4

3
1
1
4

4
1
1
1
2

u
f
a
b
i
h
G
l



Georgia Magazine - July 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Georgia Magazine - July 2020

Contents
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - Intro
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - Cover1
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - Cover2
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - Contents
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 4
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 5
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 6
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 7
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 8
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 9
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 10
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 11
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 12
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 13
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 14
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 15
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 16
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 17
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 18
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 19
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 20
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 21
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 22
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 23
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 24
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 25
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 26
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 27
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 28
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 29
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 30
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 31
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 32
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 33
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 34
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - Cover3
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - Cover4
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_202007
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_202006
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_202005
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_202004
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_202003
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_202002
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_202001
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201912
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201911
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201909
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201908
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201907
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201906
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201905
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201904
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201903
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201902
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201901
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201812
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201811
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201810
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201808
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201807
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201806
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201805
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201804
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201803
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201802
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201801
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201712
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201711
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201710
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201709
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201708
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201707
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201706
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201705
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201704
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201703
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201702
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201701
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201612
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201611
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201610
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201609
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201608
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201606
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201605
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201604
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201603
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201602
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201601
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201512
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201511
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201510
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201509
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201508
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201507
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201506
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201505
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201504
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201503
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201502
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201501
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/libertynotes_billofrights
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201412
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201411
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201410
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201409
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201408
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201407
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201406
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201405
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201404
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201403
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201402
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201401
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201312
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201311
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201310
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201309
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201308
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201307
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201306
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201305
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201304
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201303
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201302
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201301
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201212
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201211
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201210
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201209
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201208
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201207
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201206
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201205
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201204
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201203
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201202
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201201
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_realitycheck
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201111
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201110
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201109
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201108
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201107
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201106
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201105
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201104
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201103
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201102
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201101
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201012
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201010
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201009
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201008
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201007
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201006
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201005
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201004
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201003
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201002
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_201001
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_200912
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_200911
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/gemc/georgia_200910
https://www.nxtbookmedia.com