Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 30
By H.M. Cauley
JENNIFER J. HEWETT
he New Georgia Encyclopedia credits
Decatur High School alum Roy Blount Jr.
with the definition of Brunswick stew: It's
Above: From left, siblings Howard Hsu, Anita Hsu and Ronald Hsu
grew up in restaurants run by their Chinese-Malaysian immigrant
"what happens when small mammals carrying ears
parents. Today, Howard and Anita Hsu run Sweet Auburn Barbecue in
of corn fall into barbeque pits."
Atlanta, which features Southern-style barbecue with an Asian twist.
The description and origin of this long-loved
Right: Sweet Auburn Barbecue's Korean Army-Style Brunswick Stew.
Southern side dish have been the causes of contentious debates for decades. Was it created in Brunswick,
stew is the most noteworthy thing. You're more
Ga., or Brunswick County, Va.? Does it have beans or
likely to find it served with barbecue in Georgia than
not? Alas, no one has a definitive answer.
anywhere else in the world."
Mixing meat with corn, beans or squash to form a hearty
Auchmutey, who has the recipe his greatstew is a tradition that anthropologists trace to ancient times.
grandfather used to turn out batches of stew for
The New Georgia Encyclopedia records Georgia diners supping
community gatherings years ago in Bartow County,
on the stew in the 1880s,
found late-1890s newspaper references to a hearty
when the meat was often
hunter's stew sometimes made with leftovers. It ususquirrel, rabbit or other wild
ally was served at barbecue events, which often were
game, and it also menfundraisers for political or civic causes.
tions a Toccoa version with
"If [a political party] had a barbecue fundraiser,
maraschino cherries, lemons
they probably had a stew with it," Auchmutey says.
and applesauce. While the
"A church in 1890 was probably making it. And the
ingredients vary from region
varieties are similar across the South."
to region and chef to chef,
Today, many Georgia chefs add chicken and
most contemporary recipes
pork; in Virginia, chicken is the main meat. The
feature chicken, pork, beef or
assortment of vegetables also varies. The most
a combination of all three.
traditional ingredients are tomatoes and corn, but
"Brunswick stew is a
lima beans, diced potatoes or okra may be added. At
malleable concept," says Jim
Scott's Walk-up Bar-B-Que in Cartersville, the cooks
Auchmutey, a former Atlanta
keep to the basics.
"Ours is a traditional Brunswick stew with
and author of "Smokelore: A
chicken, pork, beef and corn with spices and a few
Short History of Barbecue in
secret ingredients in a tomato base," owner Craig
Guyton says. "It's very versatile and hearty. We sell it
"There's a wide variety
by the gallon, and people eat it for a week. But you're
of ingredients and seasonnot going to get to the bottom of what's original;
ings people put in it and
what somebody does in South Georgia is different
small specialties in this town
from what someone does in North Georgia."
and that town," he says. "But
A monument in Mary Ross Waterfront Park in
At Marietta's popular Sam's BBQ-1, the base
when you look at what makes
Brunswick touts Georgia's claim as the home
of the Brunswick stew recipe dates to the late 1970s.
Georgia barbecue distinctive,
of Brunswick stew.
It's undergone alterations, but the current version
the prevalence of Brunswick
Brunswick's namesake dish is open
6/12/20 11:44 AM
Georgia Magazine - July 2020
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Georgia Magazine - July 2020
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - Intro
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - Cover1
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - Cover2
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - Contents
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 4
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 5
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 6
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 7
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 8
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 9
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 10
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 11
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 12
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 13
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 14
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 15
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 16
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 17
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 18
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 19
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 20
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 21
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 22
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 23
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 24
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 25
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 26
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 27
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 28
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 29
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 30
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 31
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 32
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 33
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - 34
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - Cover3
Georgia Magazine - July 2020 - Cover4