Georgia Magazine - October 2020 - 35

INNER

The to-go-only operation for
Bryan Furman's
barbecue restaurant
offers most of his famous
fare, although some
dishes-such as hash
and Brunswick stew-are
seasonal. Staff members
say that when they arrive in
the morning, patrons often
are already lined up. Among
the favorite menu items are the
meaty ribs, at left.
L SK

Because he cooks in Georgia, Furman had to
develop a Brunswick stew recipe. And to meet
customers' demands, he offers beef brisket on
his menu. Fat cut from the brisket seasons
his baked beans, which aren't overly
sweet.
"A lot of people in Atlanta don't
eat pork," he says.
Furman also serves coleslaw,
collard greens, cornbread and
cracklin' cornbread, fries, macaroni and cheese, fried okra and
hash and rice, along with vegetarian
options for the barbecue beans and
collard greens. He rounds out his menu
with banana pudding and peach crisp.
As he works his small retail spot in
this huge Kroger store, he shows off oak and
pecan wood that he uses to smoke his meats. His
culinary team consists of two young men, including
his son, Nasir, a high school senior.
"He's worked with me since he was 12," the
proud papa says.
Having the next generation at his side continues the learning process that groomed the celebrity
pitmaster himself.
"I learned a lot from a lot of people in barbecue,"
Furman says, ticking off the generations: grandma, mom
and dad. He says that he aspires to write a cookbook one day, in
which he'll recount the stories of his family.
"When I do a book, each dish will have a story," he says.
"There will be meaning behind each dish-dishes they showed
me. That's how I want to do my book."
Furman's book will be one to keep close, telling the story
not only of the region's cuisine but also of a family's role in
keeping faith with it.
Until then, we'll be in line for barbecue.
Jane F. Garvey is a food, wine and travel freelance writer
from Decatur.

PHI

Barbecue behind the scenes

PHIL SKINNER

South Carolina is known for its mustard sauce
but offers some tomato-based sauces as well, and
sometimes they're mixed.
"[The] Midland area is where you mingle
the sauces," he says. Furman's mustard sauce is
a balance of tangy mustard with just a hint of
sweetness.
Furman also serves up hash, a chopped meat
dish served over rice, that's commonly found on
menus in South Carolina but rarely served in Georgia.
Furman's version sticks close to the "more savory,
more flavorful" version served at Francis Campbell's
Quick Stop, he says.

If you decide to double this recipe, be sure to use a very
large bowl.

BRYAN FURMAN'S MOM'S BANANA PUDDING
2 packages instant vanilla pudding mix
4 cups milk
2 cups Cool Whip
3 ounces sour cream
2-3 ripe bananas, peeled, sliced
Vanilla wafers, as needed

Mix together the vanilla pudding mix and milk, whisking
slowly and constantly so the mixture doesn't clump. Whisk in
the Cool Whip and sour cream until the mixture is light and
fluffy.
In a deep bowl, layer the pudding mixture, then banana
slices, then vanilla wafers. Repeat in that order until you reach
the top of the bowl. Chill thoroughly in the refrigerator. Serve
cold. Serves 10-12.
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Georgia Magazine - October 2020

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