Georgia Magazine - May 2023 - 34

GEORGIA Cooks
By Jane F. Garvey
Rice: savoring
a splendid grain
R
ice cultivation in the American South
began in South Carolina, where three
cultures connected to create it: Venetian
rice farmers, who knew how to build the rice canals;
Africans, who knew how to plant and irrigate the
crop; and Native Americans, who worked the fields.
Crisscrossed with wetlands and tidal rivers,
the region was well-suited to rice cultivation. In the
early days of the Georgia colony, neighboring South
Carolina colonists encouraged Georgia farmers to
grow rice because the low-lying coastal rivers-the
Savannah, the Ogeechee, the Altamaha and the
Satilla, chiefly-made growing conditions ideal.
Rice became the main staple crop of the region
until the early 20th century. From a peak of
51 million pounds in 1859, rice production fell to
2 million pounds by 1919, according to the New
Georgia Encyclopedia.
Today, the top rice-growing state is Arkansas,
home to the Dale Bumpers National Rice Research
Center in Stuttgart, which lays claim to being the
rice capital of the world.
Glenn Roberts founded Anson Mills in
Columbia, S.C., in 1998 to resurrect and produce
34 Georgia Magazine May 2023
Glenn Roberts of Anson Mills stands in his
Georgia rice fi elds.
historic grains and foods. Among them is rice, which his company
grows on 150 acres inland from Sapelo Island and along the
Savannah River in Georgia.
Roberts grows several kinds of rice, including Carolina Gold,
Charleston Gold, Tiara (a long-grain Chinese rice) and Vialone
Nano, a medium-grain Italian rice used for making risotto.
Brown rice derives its color from the bran and germ layers
that remain after the inedible exterior hull has been removed.
While it takes longer to cook than does white rice, brown rice
supplies more nutrients and offers a pleasing nutty flavor. Its
medium glycemic index makes it more suitable for diabetics.
" Charleston Gold brown rice is our biggest-selling brown
rice, " Roberts says.
Different types of rice are suited to various dishes. For
example, Indian and Pakistani cuisine turns out best when
prepared using long-grain basmati rice. Sushi requires a shortgrain
Japanese rice that adheres to the rolled ingredients. For
making paella, short-grain bomba, a Spanish variety, is ideal
because its starchy center absorbs three times its volume in
cooking liquid.
Exploring rice in dishes from breakfast to dessert will add
flavor and interest to meals from a wide variety of cuisines-and
for little money. The results will never be boring.
Jane F. Garvey is a food, wine and travel writer from Decatur.
´
COURTESY ANSON MILLS
ISTOCK.COM / PANDEMIN

Georgia Magazine - May 2023

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Georgia Magazine - May 2023

Contents
Georgia Magazine - May 2023 - Intro
Georgia Magazine - May 2023 - Cover1
Georgia Magazine - May 2023 - Cover2
Georgia Magazine - May 2023 - Contents
Georgia Magazine - May 2023 - 4
Georgia Magazine - May 2023 - 5
Georgia Magazine - May 2023 - 6
Georgia Magazine - May 2023 - 7
Georgia Magazine - May 2023 - 8
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