Hospitality Design - October 2015 - 116

special feature

chefs

BRIAN MALARKEY
Searsucker and Herringbone
Becoming a chef

Brian Malarkey didn't have lifelong professional
culinary ambitions. "I actually failed at just
about everything else in college," he says, "and
one day, my father said, 'Brian, all you do is cook
food for your friends, and you really don't seem
to be enjoying this college thing, maybe you
should think about cooking for a living?' As it
turns out, that was the question that sparked my
culinary career."

1

Earliest food memory

Raised on a ranch in Oregon, "as a young kid,
around 10 years old, our family had a friend that
lived on the Oregon coast, and one day when
we were there visiting, our friend caught and
prepared a bunch of the most delicious crab.
As we were all sitting at the dinner table, I
remembered thinking to myself how cool it was
that this food brought so many people together
to enjoy a meal. From then on, I always loved
food, especially cooking and serving it to others."

1+2. The main dining
room and patio area of
the Thomas Schoosdesigned Herringbone
Santa Monica.

Striking out on his own

After graduating from Le Cordon Bleu College
of Culinary Arts in Portland, Oregon, Malarkey
worked at various well-known restaurants in
Los Angeles, most notably Citrus for chef Michel
Richard. He went on to become executive chef
and partner for Oceanaire Seafood Room,
opening the company's San Diego location.
Five years and a Top Chef stint later (he was a
finalist on Season 3), he ventured out on his
own with local impresario James Brennan to
form Enlightened Hospitality Group (EHG),
launching, among other venues, the Fabric of
Social Dining restaurants, namely Searsucker
and Herringbone. "After spending many years
working for the man, at some point you sort
of want to be the man," he says. "I wanted to
do it for myself after several years of working
on the line." Since 2010, they've opened seven
successes all designed by Thomas Schoos-in
Austin; San Diego; Del Mar, California; and
most recently, Las Vegas for Searsucker; and La
Jolla, California; Santa Monica; and Los Angeles
for Herringbone, with Las Vegas opening soon.
As a result, restaurant and entertainment leader
Hakkasan Group acquired EHG in 2014.

Big break

"Top Chef was the lottery ticket that really
propelled me into the spotlight," Malarkey says.

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October 2015 hospitalitydesign.com

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Photos by MARIE BUCK PHOTOGRAPHY

"It was an incredible launchpad for me, and I
knew I made it big when I was at an afterparty
one night and chef Mario Batali was there. I
walked up and told him that I loved him as a
chef, and Batali said, 'My kids love you!' It was
such an incredible moment for me."

On the success of Searsucker and
Herringbone

"The restaurants have been so successful
because we've made them for the people, the
guests. We make great, approachable food that
people want to enjoy and share, and we present
it in a welcoming, yet stylish setting with great
service."

Greatest lesson learned

"To be humble and thankful for everything I
have, and of course, to appreciate my fantastic
team."

Why San Diego and Las Vegas

"Both San Diego and Las Vegas are gaining
traction as legitimate dining scenes, with great
local food cultures. There are great grassroots
movements in both locations spurred by chefs
and farmers."

Food philosophy

"To have fun and not overcomplicate the food; I
believe the product should speak for itself."

Mentors

"Every local chef, farmer, and purveyor I meet is
my mentor. I am so inspired by other chefs and
farmers-they push me to explore and try new
things. I feel like I have a constant community of
people inspiring me."

What's next

"I have my sights set on our new Herringbone Las
Vegas project and a new project in San Diego."
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