Theatre Design & Technology - Fall 1980 - 23

Research
Costume Pattern Drafts
by Kevin L Seligman

Beginning with this issue, a variety of pattern drafts from the 4th
Edition of The "Climax" System for Cutting Gentlemen's Garments by
W. E. Leggatt and T. W. Hodgkinson (London: Minister and Co.,
1920?) will be presented.' The material offered in this issue will
serve as an introduction to the system as well as presenting a model
draft which demonstrates the application of the system in drafting
men's garments. Also included is "A Scale of Proportionate Measures
for Cutting Block Patterns" (p. 355) (Figure III).
In the Preface to the book, the authors state that their aim has
been:
to lay before the trade the practical experience of the cutting
room in such clearness and simplicity as will appeal to the student, and at the same time supply those valuable qualities that
will render the work a book of reference to the expert cutter.
Their system is based on the direct measure system of pattern
drafting. Diagrams are drawn to scale, either one-fifth or onetenth. The System in its general character is in no way experimental, but embodies the mature wisdom of every-day work in the
cutting room, and has not only proved thoroughly trustworthy in
the hands of stUdents, but . .. (also) has received the unquestionable approval of the leading men in the London Foremen Tailors' Societies.
In "The Object of This Book" (p. A), the authors state:
The System is based upon the simple principle of direct measures
working in conjunction with the square . ... The square . .. is
used to define the points and quantities which constitutes any
new feature that may be found embodied in the system.
For their System, the authors list the various measurements which
are needed in order to obtain the best results (p. 5). These include the
following: Natural Waist, Full Length, Width of Back, Length to Elbow,
Length to Sleeve, Waist, Seat, Across Chest, Front of Scye, Front
Shoulder, Over Shoulder, Depth of Scye, Scye Circumference, and
Approximate measure of Chest (Figure I). They state:
It will be noticed that for the purpose of emphasizing the value of
direct measures the chest is given approximately only. The actual
circumference of the chest is that indicated by the combination of
the across chest measure and the front scye.... If the ordinary
inch-tape be used for the purpose [of taking direct measures] it is
necessary to mark the position of the front scye with chalk, so as
to define not only the depth of scye but the position of the front
scye also. The tape should then be carried round to the backseam and another mark made there to define the depth of scye.

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Application of the Measures
(pp. 8-10) (Figure II)
We will now endeavor to show how the measures can be applied to
the system. Having ruled the back construction line B W, the waist
level is then obtained by squaring by B W to M. After making L Jf."
from W, the actual back-seam is chalked from B to L. This line represents the sewing mark in a coat having a back-seam, or the creaseedge in any whole-back coat other than a sack. It has been considered wiser to adopt this method than to risk confusion by including
this seam. Point K is found at the net depth of scye. This in all cases
provides sufficient length in that section. Point E is given as half the
front scye and 1 V,', for the purpose of providing uniformity of outline
in drafting model patterns. It is not an essential point in the system,
and must not be regarded as such, as the actual back width is always

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* This is a continuation of a series on costume pattern drafts from out of print sources begun in the Winter, 1979 issue of TD& T. People interested in contributing to the series should contact: Kevin L. Seligman, Department of Theatre Arts, Northern Illinois University, DeKalb, IL 60115.

USITT IFall, 1980

Theatre Design & Technology

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Theatre Design & Technology - Fall 1980