Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 20

American graveyards (especially those along the east coast
where the idea of burial portraits were perpetuated).
What can be gained by doing primary research is first a verification of a costume on hand, or an idea for a costume design for a given period (along with a sense of appropriate
color and texture); next, one can put the costume in the context in which it was used during its historic period; and finally
one can get a glimpse of life in the period as reflected in the
prevailing social mores-morals and manners. In the history
department of the Oakland Museum, for instance, objects are
treated culturally; effort is made to relate each artifact to the
lives of the people who use it, and to the time in which it was
used.
Allowing oneself to get productively sidetracked can be the
very best part of doing research. For an exhibition of a quarter-century of women's and children's summer dressing,
1900-1925, called, "Midsummer in the Pergola" (Oakland
Museum, July, 1980), I combed through issues of the Delineator, The Ladies' Home Journal, McCall's, Modern Priscilla,
etc. in search of visual material to relate to the costumes to be
exhibited. The descriptive copy in these magazines whetted
my desire for more cultural information and I allowed myself to
become productively, culturally sidetracked.
Since the costume material was to be presented in an outdoor context, I needed to know the proprieties of outdoor entertaining and the social customs of the period. I turned to
Maude C. Cooke's Social Etiquette, or Manners and Customs
of Polite Society. Published in Oakland, California shortly before the turn of the century, Mrs. Cooke's book of etiquette
was a wealth of information. For the exhibit, several white
linen cut-work suits from Italy were to be displayed in a setting
that simulated a women's meeting held out-of-doors. According to Mrs. Cooke, "Rugs should be laid on the grass for the
accommodation of those not accustomed to standing on the
ground, and easy chairs provided for delicate or aged ladies
who may be present, so all may enjoy the party without fear of
the consequence."
Mrs. Cooke had lured me into the world of late nineteenth
and early twentieth-century propriety. We were to show a
wedding gown in the exhibition; I read on. Mrs. Cook said, "In
very fashionable circles it is the mother that names the day of
her daughter's marriage." And I was reminded that our mobile

Doll, c. 1905. Dolls are an obvious source of costume information.
This type of artifact shows the costume as a total unit: underthings,
stockings, shoes, and outer garments presented with an appropriate
hair style. From the collections of the History Department, The Oakland Museum.



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980

Contents
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 1
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 2
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 3
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - Contents
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 5
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 6
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 7
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 8
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 9
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 10
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 11
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 12
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 13
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 14
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 15
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 16
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 17
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 18
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 19
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 20
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 21
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 22
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 23
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 24
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 25
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 26
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 27
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 28
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 29
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 30
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 31
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 32
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 33
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 34
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 35
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 36
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 37
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 38
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 39
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 40
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 41
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 42
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 43
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 44
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