# Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 29

Square the line 0 E, by K E.
Make 0 from E, one-third over-shoulder and Y2" (6).
H from E, one-fourth over shoulder (4 Ya").
Mark 9, 3A" below H.
With B as a pivot, sweep from F, to A and S.
A from F, one-sixth over-shoulder (23h").
Measure from A through F, straight up to S, the front shoulder length
and 1" (12 3A ").
Rule a line from S to B.
Make J from B, one-sixth over-shoulder (2 3A").
Place N above J, 3A".
Form shoulder slope from N, through 0, to I, 11," beyond O.
Square the line F R by F K.
P from F, 111,".
25 is midway between N and I.
Measure from K to 25, place that quantity on F, and make R the overshoulder and v," (1 7).
Form front shoulder slope from S, through R, to Q, hooking in slightly
at Q.
Mark Q from S, Y." less than N I.
Make C from F, the cross-chest measure (711,").
U is midway between C K.
Form the scye from I through H 9 U and P to Q.
Square from C, to D and 12, by C K.
Mark' from M, 1 ".
Mark 12 below 10,1".
Place 15 from K, one-half over-shoulder (8Y.").
Make 7 from W, one-half over-shoulder (8Y.").
14 is midway between 15 and K.
Mark 5 from L, one-eighth waist (2).
Place 6 from 7, one-fourth waist (4).
Form curves of side-seam from 9, through 14 and 5 to 3, and from 9,
through 14 and 6 to 4.
With 9 as pivot, sweep from 3 to 4, for length of sidebody.
Measure from L to 5, and from 6 to 7, place that amount on * and
make 8, the waist measure and 2".
Form the curves of sidebody seam from 15 through 7, and from 15
through 8, springing out a little v," above 3-10 line.
Chalk the run of waist-seam from 4 through 12.
With F as a pivot, sweep from S to D, and shape the gorge from S
through D.
Mark G from C, 2".
Mark T from', 1 3A".
Chalk the runs of fronts from G to T to style.
Take a Y." cut out of waist below F.

Rule from 4 through Y to length desired.
Add v," of round beyond Y and chalk pleat edge, crossing 4 Y line at
16" down.
Chalk run of waist from 4, touching 2-10 line, through 12 and on to
front edge.
Complete front and bottom of skirt to style.

The Sleeve (Figure 3)
Beyond all doubt this portion of a coat too often receives scant attention as regards its relation to the back and forepart. It is hoped that
the rules for production here laid down will, by reason of the simplicity
of construction, be appreciated not only by students of the present
method but by those who care to apply the principle to the system
they used in daily practice.
In most cases the over-shoulder measure corresponds to the actual
size of scye, and experience shows that where a man's shoulders are
large his armhole will be found to increase proportionately and vice
versa. We have therefore made the shoulder measure the basis of
construction in preference of the scye measure. We then proceed as
follows:

MEASUREMENTS
Width of back....................... 7"
Length to elbow
20"

Length of cuff
Over-shoulder

31 "
1611,"

J
H

-0- - - -

G
DIA.23

D~-~K . - . - - - - - - - - - - - - - l*

- -- - - -- ---- --- - -

C

- - - - - - -.
B

MEASUREMENTS.
Figure 3: The Morning Coat, sleeve draft.

Instructions for Drafting

I

I

.'_T_rt'!-

Figure 2: The Morning Coat, pattern draft.

The Skirt
By K U, square on waist-line to X.
Mark X from V, 9".
Square line X Y by X V.
Measure from L to 5, place that quantity on X and make Y half seat
measure (9).
28

Theatre Design & Technology

Square A B D.
Mark C from B, one-fourth over-shoulder (4 Va ").
Rule A from C, half over-shoulder and 1" (9Y.").
F is midway between A and B.
Square F E and F G by F B.
Mark G from F, 1" M from B, one-eighth over-shoulder (2).
Chalk the sleevehead from A through G to C. Square H A by A B.
Place the width of back (7) on A, and make J, the elbow length (20).
Continue to I the sleeve length plus 11," (3111,").
Square D I by D B, 3v,".
K from D, W'.
Rule from K through I.
Chalk the run of the forearm from C to K, hollowing 1" midway at L.
Make the width of cuff and elbow to taste or measure.
Hook in the hindarm 3A" at N.
Chalk from N through E with an easy curve to 3A" above C.
The method of producing the sleeve shown on Dia. 23 is suitable
for such garments as Dress and Frock Coats, and for Morning Coats,
etc., in which a clean-hanging sleeve is required. It would not, however, be suitable for a Sporting Coat, or where considerable ease is a
desideratum.
If employed under such circumstances creases at the forearm
would be bound to occur, and would indicate too great a depth between the pitches, with a scantiness in the matter of width.
(Next issue will cover drafting of collars)
USITI/Winter, 1980

Contents
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 1
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 2
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 3
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - Contents
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